Friday, September 30, 2005

Bondi 7am – shoulder high, not bad…not bad…Pretty hard to pick at the moment… Woke up expecting micro conditions, instead half decent bumps rockin’ into the bay. Bondye had a couple of distinct peaks working quite nicely amongst the summer loving morning crowd. Couple of sets up around head high, but mostly shoulder high. Good […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, September 29, 2005

Hola! With the recent NE winds, we’ve got some locally generated wind swell from the north. Wind swell is typically weak and short interval. Bit like frothing harbour chop really… best suited to the beginners. Bondi is facing the wrong way today to attract any sort of goodness. Best hunt around for something else facing […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, September 28, 2005

Bondi 7am – chest to head high, surfable, bit mankyIt’s always a nice surprise to wake up to some rideable waves when the radar hasn’t been forecasting a great deal. Or maybe the radar is just busted, like the speedo in the old beastie Holden. Regardless, if you were up real early, like 5:45am, there […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, September 27, 2005

Thick grey skies and south winds combined with a small, weak south swell. Wave height is around knee to waist high (may bigger sets) – suitable for beginners (keen ones). Quite messy. Rain made it pretty hard to get a shot…trying to stick ya lens out the car window isn’t conducive to world class photography…here’s […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, September 26, 2005

Bondi 6:30am – tiny, weak, overcast, sloppy What’s that…rain? Haven’t seen that stuff in a while. Hopefully some of it is reaching our damns. Surf – what’s that? Haven’t seen that in a while either… a dire week ahead with very little forecasted in the surf department. You’d struggle to find a wave over your […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, September 23, 2005

Twenty five. Now that’s a solid number and that’s how hot is going to be today. Actually that’s about the highlight of today…as the surf is dismal. You could paddle after knee high north easter wind chop but surely you have something better to do. I’d say your 1st swim for the summer would be […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, September 22, 2005

Wal: “can ya smell it?” Uge: “Wot?” Wal:”Summer (insert dumb grin)”…. indeed amigos – its here. What a sensational morning down the beach. The sun had that element of ‘bake’ to it. The waves unfortunately have backed of somewhat from yesterday’s bag of goodies. Instead of 5-6 foot range, we’re torkin’ 2-3 foot and a […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Surprisingly the swell has come up overnight more than anticipated and is now producing some solid waves around 4-6 foot range down at Bondi. Biggest its been in some time now. Any beach facing south should attract the same size today. Even though the winds are offshore early (will swing SE onshore this afternoon) it […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Bondi 7am – shoulder high, sometimes bigger…bit messyMight be a few kids late for work today as we’ve still got small (but good) waves this morning. Nice offshore conditions with a gentle SW breeze under clear skies. Most waves were breaking around shoulder high… a few sets out the back managed to get up over […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, September 19, 2005

After being spoilt with perfection in Indo it can take a while to adjust to our beachies. Some of the good days are shadowed by distant holiday memories of long workable walls, warm water, pure glass and the odd tube. This morning, however, was quite impressive down at Bondi around 7am. The onshore winds of […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, September 16, 2005

We’re back and the land seems to be still rockin’ like the boat…Looks like I haven’t been missing action in my absence (surfwise). Today is no exception as it’s pretty much flat in Sydney – unsurfable. Instead of running 5 shots of pond like conditions under overcast skies…I thought I would run a few from […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

10 days, 9 surfers and a 120 schooner drifting around some of the worlds best waves…it’s been so good – one of the best trips. We finished up on a perfect 3-foot right before starting the long 13 hour boat ride back to Padang. We are all surfed out. Consistent swell for most of the […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, September 12, 2005

Greetings from paradise. Our 120 foot schooner hasn’t moved and we continue to surf the same world class left hander. We’re all surfed out. Paddling is torturous and you start surfing pretty lame due to tiredness and complacency. Waves were smaller today…around chest high with the odd head high set. Massive lulls. If these conditions […]

See full post & more photographs

Sunday, September 11, 2005

<Start Indo Satellite transmission> Waves have been as good as waves get. We’ve spent the last 3 days anchored at the best right in the area, and then the best left. These waves would have to be the most photographed waves in the world (outside Hawaii)…as they consistently work like a machine. You’d recognize them […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, September 08, 2005

Hola! The Mentawai Islands turned it on again for another day. Swell was slightly larger than yesterday, but cleaner. We surfed 4-5 foot cranking left all day. Bit of morning sickness on it early, but it cleaned up to pure silk by the afternoon. Crowds – large. This break (not naming) has some of the […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, September 07, 2005

Waves were pumping today. Shacks all round. Swell has come up and loads of breaks are lighting up – plenty to go around for all. We surfed mostly 4-5 footers with light winds for most of the day… until 5pm where a 45 knot squall struck in a matter of seconds causing havoc at an […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, September 06, 2005

Bit of a lazy day…waves weren’t as good as yesterday so we all kicked around the boat walking in circles for most of it. An early wind played havoc with most breaks so instead of perfection we surfed near perfection. There is always something around the corner that’s offshore – being and archipelago every optimum […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, 5th September 2005

Selmat Pagi! We’ve now made it to the Indonesian islands after 3 flights, nearly losing one of the gang in Bali at Double6, a whole lot of dithering and then a 13 hour boat trip. We’re currently floating 100 kilometres off Sumatra’s coast line along side a thumping tubular right hander. 9 surfers on board […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, September 02, 2005

Hola! The long trek to the Mentawai Islands begins. 1st stop Bali for few a warm up sessions. How goooood is this place…swell came up today and we scored a meaty 4-6 foot solid freight training left. Massive longs rides, about 200-300 metres if you connected one all the way through. Think I did 1 […]

See full post & more photographs