Well…bit of an anticlimax this morning. Thought it was going to be bigger and cleaner with offshore winds – but there is still an element of junkiness about it (and I’m not torkin about *Ness passed out in the park again) – wonky closeout faces on shallow south end banks. Now that I’ve lowered your expectation there was the odd head high set of twin banks in the south that would present a little lip worth boffing, and even the odd sucky tube if you play your cards right…but you’d have to be a patient man say Confucius. It will improve with incoming tide (midday high) and as the ocean settles.
Forecast for the weekend is quite healthy – nothing big, this south swell will swing around to the east, the sun will shine, you’ll surf head high max at exposed beaches and the winds will be the NW (a.m)NE(p.m) combo. Nice and crispy 29 degrees and 31 degrees respectively. Perfect summer’s weekend. Pack the car.
Hows today’s 11 year old Oscar power grom…the confident lil’ whipper rocks up to me whilst shooting and says " oi youuse guys from Stab Mag"…"yer lil’ fella,lets see if you’ll make the cover for next issue…"
Enough ramble. You’d probably need to get back to work now seeing we’ve just had a holiday and supposed to be refreshed. Later, Uge
