There is something in Nasi Goreng that is addictive. You can eat a fair bit of that stuff…especially when you can feed a family for less than the Harbour bridge toll (beat that maccas). Today the swell is still small up here in paradise. After driving for an hour or so dodging chickens, lost in the rice paddies you’ll come across a black sand volcanic beach with pumping rights (still pumps when it’s small). Yeah you know where I am…she ain’t pretty with dark water and kinda manky beach, but its one of the most beltable waves up here. A frothin’ pack of 13 year old Hawaiians were shredding the joint. These micro dots can pull off airs in 1 foot. What I’d give to be 40 kilos again. (Better cut back on that Nasty Goreng).
Looks like you’ve still got waves back home…Bondi 2-3 foot with a howling offshore perhaps?
Junpa lagi, Ugio
