Wednesday, June 27, 2007
XXXL.
June is big season. Write it down. Only been back from Mentawai 6 days and have witnessed 2 of the biggest swells of the year. At 6:40am I peeped through the blinds expecting a swell increase…and wow, we got one. Saw a monster 8 foot set peeling across the bay bathed in beautiful morning light. Game on. Too much water moving around to surf most breaks, but spectacular to watch.
Took me 1.5 hrs to drive 1km to work today. Every corner I turned I saw a frothing massive lip plume fanning in the strong offshore. Monsters breaking in places that I haven’t seen before. Took 300 photos this morning…will leak them out over the new few days.
One lone wolf tried to paddle out at South Bondi, but he didn’t get close to the lineup being bashed by white water. Few crew at North Bondi surfing a manky deformed thing, but that won’t fry your burger. Manly would probably be the go. Something with a bit of protection. So it’s big and offshore…I’d suggest sampling a few. Tomorrow looks even bigger and offshore. In fact the next three days have waves and offshore winds – yep just like Christmas. Enjoy::uge
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