Yesterday I surfed for around 7 hours – I can barely lift my arms now (yep, it was that good). The swell arrived and some really fun 4 footers were on offer in the Mentawai Islands. Bit of trouble with flukey winds that blow for an hour, then glass off, then blow again. The sought after Indo tubes were hard to find, we mainly surfed a mechanical left, Maccas, which is said to be the world’s funnest wave. With fun waves come the crowds though – it’s busy.
Maccas was also hit by a big Tsunami last year. The landscape has been totally altered…trees uprooted, a bare point which was once a sea of palms, a wreck of a hotel and the metal skeleton of charter boat Midas on the beach. It’s kinda creepy what happened here…our boat Tengirri helped rescue many of the stranded survivors, which were found clinging to the treetops in shock.
SurfAid is the only relief agency working in this area. If you surf the Mentawais – you need to be donating. The Mentawai people don’t really have any other assistance here as it is so remote.
Have a great day, I don’t know what’s happening back home as we’re on satellite hook up.
Adios :: uge
Uge:: I want to get a water housing and I thought you may know the pros and cons of a few brands and which you think is the best. Love your work.
7 hours eh, Uge?
How about a picture of you slotted for a change!