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Waves are small today, ride a bike...best way around the North Shore Waves are small today, ride a bike...best way around the North Shore No. 36423 Buy

Confessions 25.01.2013

“There’s chicks out there. And they’re in bikini’s”. This is Uge’s attempt to build my confidence to take the SUP out in front of our place nestled between Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach. If you’ve seen his pics from the last few days on Oahu’s North Shore you’ll understand my trepidation. What Uge neglects to add is that these are Hawaiian sun goddesses who were delivered straight from the womb onto a mini-mal. My confession as a flat water SUPper is that despite living in Sydney for 14 years, I never learnt to surf and back in home-town Adelaide the biggest wave at metro Glenelg barely dwarfs a speed bump.

Despite Uge’s reassurances I load an 11′ SUP into a 10’6″ SUV and head for the relative safety of Haleiwa Harbour 8 miles west. I gingerly paddle out to the reef break and stand off to the side knowing the local disdain for outsiders stealing waves. I pick at a few meagre morsels like a fly buzzing a toddler’s nappy as I build my confidence. After 20 minutes of doing this a rogue wave blasts out of nowhere and – with little choice – I’m away. Halfway through another wave comes from my right as I try and read this crazy reef break. In front, something breaks the water’s surface – is it a rock? A shark fin? It’s a turtle and it joins me for the rest of the wave. My own personal turtle retracts his head away from the seat of my boardshorts.

I look up at the mountain range in the distance and feel elation – my first Hawaiian wave. So this is what the legendary North Shore is about. I reckon I’m just about ready for Pipe. Maybe.

I took some shots on my iPhone but think you’d better appreciate these pics Uge took today.

Mahalo.

Dan

(Dan is a guest blogger and one of Uge’s few non-surfing mates. He’s been buggin’ Uge to write a daily report for 6 years…well, today is Dan’s day)

John Florence, in his frontyard John Florence, in his frontyard No. 36424 Buy
Shot this from inside the shack, my right Shot this from inside the shack, my right No. 36427 Buy
Waimea, shorey tubos Waimea, shorey tubos No. 36425 Buy
Out the front, small but fun Out the front, small but fun No. 36426 Buy
Makaha - Palms and kite Makaha - Palms and kite No. 36430 Buy
Biggest wave this week in Hawaii Biggest wave this week in Hawaii No. 36429 Buy
It will be back on again, soon...Jamie O'Brien in a round one It will be back on again, soon...Jamie O'Brien in a round one No. 36428 Buy

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Comments

  • Kiz said |

    Did Tom Curren turn into a goofy or is he riding switch?

    • billy said |

      curren? that was the other day cuzzie

  • meat said |

    Dan, you should never be given a guest spot again….absolute dribble.

  • Bondi-Boy said |

    Nice debut Dan DeMarvellous…. Best Martin

    • sauce said |

      dan was rubbish

  • Cat said |

    Uge, I think you have a bit of competition. Loved it! – Cat

    • Dan said |

      Thanks Cat – very kind

  • dennis said |

    But rough sheeesh, well done Dan good short story indeed , you should have a monthly guest spot.

    • Dan said |

      Thanks Dennis

  • Roland said |

    Honestly I feel let down by yesterdays post. 2nd and 3rd reef wash throughs, 10-12 ft plus etc and while there are some nice surf and lifestyle shots nothing really coincided with the literal descriptions from the body of the email that got me so excited to scroll down! Are there any “cutting-room” floor photos you can post up? Surfing and wave shots only please, don’t need a picture of someone paddling or swimming, unless its that crazy local body surfer Mark Cunningham…

    • Uge said |

      Hey Roland, don’t feel let down.

      I probably should explain more. A 2nd and 3rd reef wash through is a broken wave, wall of foam washing in from out the back. Few people catch them. If they do…they’re not great and more of a shoulder than a cavernous pipeline tube.

      WHen shooting in the water it’s not ideal to document these shoulders…as they’re boring.

      All the action is on the slab at 1st Reef…where the mid size ones barrell off their nut.

      That swimmer shot yesterday is of Dan Malloy. He’s a legend. Google him.

      By no means were the shots from Thursday cutting room floor shots!

      Seeya, uge

  • Roland said |

    btw not complaining! Love the photos, just want more of them on what sounds like what was an epic day!

  • Mike said |

    Nice story Dan. Reminds us that we all had to start somewhere – only some later than others. Keep building your confidence on the SUP and look forward to more guest posts.

    • Dan said |

      Thank you Mike

  • Dan said |

    Thanks for all your comments guys and for indulging me – figure it’s always good to get and give a different perspective. To the couple of negatives – fair point meat and sauce (do you guys know each other?) I’ve just shot Uge carving up a few in front of our place here but Aquabumps policy forbids any selfies so I don’t think you’ll be seeing any of them soon. And if you think my prose is crap wait until you see my pictures. That is unless you want a Uge Tan cameo. Enough from me and we resume normal programming soon. Mahalo.

  • Rebor said |

    +1 for “My own personal turtle retracts his head away from the seat of my boardshorts”
    bahaha.

    • Dan said |

      The real turtle was much prettier Rebor

  • cookmesomeeggs said |

    what’s up with all the haters? (looking at you Roland, Meat and Sauce!)

    If ya can’t say anything positive then say nothing (listen to ya mummas advice for once) or find a blog to complain on.

    Awesome work guys.

    Yeah na yeah

    • Dan said |

      You’re a legend cookmesomeeggs

  • Ginormous said |

    I’m sure meat and sauce don’t have anything worthy in terms of photos or commentary. Get your own website with thousands of followers before ya start knocking. Well done dan, ignore the gooses!

    • Dan said |

      Thanks Ginormous – very kind

  • Cornelia in Florida said |

    Loved your story, Dan. It’s nice to get a new perspective! I’m not a surfer, I just check in for the pictures from my cubicle, so it was nice to read a less experienced surfers perspective. Uge’s posts are always great, but I think guest bloggers are a good idea! cheers :)

    • Dan said |

      Thanks Cornelia

  • michael said |

    Great story Dan, don’t worry about those kooks

    • Dan said |

      Thanks Michael – magic day today (Friday). Sun is out and surf is pumping – looks great. Cheers, Dan

  • ian said |

    back to the photography….Makaha palms is a classic Uge…nice work

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