Zest

The swell has gone and it doesn’t look like it will return until the weekend. Overall the next 10 days looks very small. Where have those booming autumn swells gone?

Incredible day outside. There was a chill in the air. 1 foot.

For the next two weeks these updates will be sent from a boat in the Mentawais Islands, Indonesia. Yep I’m taking some time out of Bondi to chase good waves and warmer temperatures. This will be my 15th trip there and it’s as exciting as my first. Can’t wait.

Have a good one. Speak next week.

::uge

Waiting, waiting…

Perth, springs coiled and ready to pounce

Post wave spray

Oops

Crazy Irish

A good day for the long board variety

Happy Bretney

Robin Austin

Joe’s new boy band hair cut.

Nose Grinder

47 thoughts on “Zest

  1. Dear aquabumps, love the site, been getting my fix daily since startup- just wanted to comment on something I’ve been watching on your photos for years, the incredible bad manners at Bondi so many of your photos show. Fades, snakes, drop-ins, such as todays photo “oops” above.
    That’s not an oops moment, its a firm f’ you to the dude inside. Didn’t look, don’t care, too cool.
    How do you stand it up there? Down here at Maroubra, that behavior wouldn’t really stand. Its not like anyone gets all punchy down here anymore, but there would be firm and unambiguous words spoken and a suggestion made that maybe a different peak, or beach may be preferable.
    Thank god they all go to Bondi!

    1. Well said Harry………have surfed all my life with the last 16 yrs out of Bondi and have given up. Reality is this is a resort town and the decency of surf etiquette has disappeared. There is a standard shrug of the shoulders from the offender on the paddle back out. Not advocating we return to the darkdays of dragging people onto the beach to sort it out but the odd verbal spray and loud calls on takeoff should return. The arrogance of this offender in Oops is typical and Uge you should call it out for what it is “a dirty drop in”.

      1. I’m with Harry and Willy G here – I’m forever seeing drop-ins (especially from the likes of Miss Antarctica), and find myself thanking my lucky stars this isn’t my break for this reason!

      2. Word Willy G, how about it Uge, you have some cred in the lineup and have more profile than anyone else in the surf media around Sydney- call it what it is, name and shame.
        You’ve got the network and the opportunity to educate people, particularly people new to surfing, about how to behave. On crowded peaks etiquette is even more important. I don’t care about losing a wave, frustrating as that may be, but being run over by a lethal SUP missile and kept out of the water through injury would kill me. I’m 40 and my body is falling apart enough as it is.

        1. Choosing to post to 50k+ ‘aint enough to name and shame, Harry? The evidence is in black and white. There’s no need to put opinionated comments around the incident. The image has done it’s job. Lets move on.

      3. Bondi jealously oh this is the funniest . I wonder if there would be south criticism if she wasn’t so attractive . Some of you just nasty and have too much time .

    1. She is a beautiful girl – I recon good on her for not being bullied out of waves. I’ve stopped surfing Bondi from guys losing it at me because after waiting and waiting finally having a go. You can’t get anything as a girl unless you do surf aggressive. What happened to men having manners and letting a girl have a wave. There’s lot of pics of Perth and the wave looks small maybe he should have waited . Best surfers give away waves… You boys disgust me. Get in a car and surf down the coast , better waves and maybe you’ll learn some manners and stop annoying me with horrible posts. How about comments and the girls smiling x jane

      1. Hi Everyone,

        I just read all the comments to today’s post. (sorry heading overseas – in a bit of a rush)

        Wow…

        Everyone has to calm it down a little I reckon. Chill.

        Bondi is hectic…always has been. I don’t get many waves out there without someone dropping in. I kinda expect it. It’s always been like that (we live in a very crowded area). No need to get too worked up when it’s 1 foot. If it was a drop in on a 4 foot set – well, that would be bad and I’d be frustrated. But it’s tiny today.

        Charlotte is a top girl with a great attitude. She’s there every day having a go…I don’t think she means harm or controversy. That board is huge, and once it’s going she has trouble getting it off a wave. I noticed she’s been hanging in the corner with no one around – probably to be safe.

        Most of the time she’s so far out on the shoulder that you could get 2 turns in before reaching her.

        Loads of girls coming down recently, which is awesome. Good vibe in the water I reckon.

        Have a good day guys – don’t get fume up at the keyboards and go surfing, cheers, uge

    2. Well said uge Charlotte is the loveliest girl has the biggest heart and I love watching her on the water everyday. Me and my husband call her bondi’s mermaid. I laughed at the pic thought it was a cool shot its sad people have such negative attitudes – I find her inspirational and more interesting then all the boys . Mono endows the ocean she seems more at peace with it then anyone.

  2. Harry i believe this problem is a culmination of a few issues,hedonism,bondi property prices and the roosters!,not gunna say to much more but i lived there for many years many years ago and never surfed bondi,i am a devout Bronte,Tama and Bra loyalist and its very strange how a few footsteps can provide a much more pleasant and real surf experience not to mention the quality and power of swells,and my Father was a captain of Bondi surf club for many years….

  3. “Oops” is serial shoulder sitter and burns people on almost every wave.
    I hope the numerous recent photos of shameless burns will get the message through.
    That SUP is a lethal weapon and its pilot doesn’t have a lot of control.
    Perth, would love to have seen you punting right over her!

    1. What happened to guys giving girls a wave …if she was in the bra the boys encourage girls to get waves. Bondi is no world class wave and you guys need to get a grip and enjoy yourself and surf other beaches. I don’t think trying to take someone joy out of surfing is good energy . Maybe the photographer should post other shots of her on her own wave…or does she only get dropins if this is the case then you would think a guy would give her one. From my encounters the boys have no manners and go on everything. I you can’t handle crowds surf elsewhere.

  4. It’s actually heavy how little the Serial morning ruiner seems to care about anybody else in the ocean.
    You wouldn’t walk to the front of the line at coles and just simply start unloading your trolly.
    Bruce i wouldn’t risk damaging my board when the damage to her ocean liner would be so minimal.

    1. Geez leave the girl alone . You Bondi boys take it way to seriously she’s out there everyday and often the only girl in tough conditions .perth you get a million waves it was 1foot, loosen up and get another 1footer

      1. so being a woman gives you a free pass to a) endanger someone’s safety and b) ruin someone’s morning? Guys take it seriously out there because for some of them its a lifestyle, and for others its their life. It’s hard for people to understand that started surfing at 20 or 30. If you cant get your head around it, the north corner is all rainbows and lollipops. This applies to all Australian beaches apparently…

  5. Karma will eventually sort out “Oops”. If she was a he, someone else would have sorted it by now

    1. If your that serious about a wave and no dropins surf a real beach. What do you expect from Bondi – and I’m on toms side hello what’s the guy even doing on the wave. The way I grew up girls and kids have first right . I’ve suede all my life and given my bed waves away – that is karma like. Even writing a commen like that shows what kind of person you are – an that you have only surfed Bondi your whole life.

  6. I’m very happy to see someone pulled up for the arrogance of dropping in. I really hope she looks at this picture and these comments today.
    I lived in Bondi for 15 years and it never ceased to amaze me how many people had their head up their own arse of self-importance, particularly when it comes to the ocean. Being in it should be a break from the madness of the what goes on beyond the shoreline.
    From an artistic viewpoint, this photo is a great example of one persons perceived power even though the community reality is a deafening reflection of their ignorance of the essence of surfing.

  7. I agree with Tom, be a gentleman out there – what happened to ‘Ladies first’?

    And the words from Radiationrules have a wonderful amount of brevity:
    “Being in it (the ocean) should be a break from the madness of the what goes on beyond the shoreline”.

    1. you are tripping mate yes sure she gets a wave when it is her turn in the line up. Everyone is in the same boat. She also gets to burn anyone that tries to take her wave when its her turn.

      Bondi will never be a break from the madness, it is the madness.

  8. Yeah i must admit my care factor is extremely low when the surf is so dismal.
    I have moved to greener pastures, just visiting mum and dad before i head back to my mid north coast house in the bush and enjoy silence for a week or so……

  9. Good lord, road rage on the sea!!! Thought surfing was supposed to be relaxing. Chill and er dare I say it…if this is all you’ve got to worry about, well you’re living blessed lives.

  10. Seeing guys surfing is boring. As great as it is to see shots of Perth its much more interesting having a girl in it . Performing a drop pocket sure is great but come on its half a foot you should be laughing about being on a party wave instead of getting sucked into the bondi men arrogance . I always encourage girls to get waves cheer them on. When your on a sup you paddle early you don’t see people on the inside start paddling unless they scream, you’d think a guy would see a girl going for a wave and cheer her on instead of going for it and then getting upset . Bondi is not a world class wave its for beginners if experienced surfers are goin to cry about dropins surf somewhere else . Its easier for you to go on anything. I don’t often write things but this just shows an ugly side of Bondi and how arrogant and bullying some of the guys can be. .cheer up be nice, its Bondi …

  11. Im with Uge da huge just drop it everyone we all enjoy his site ,SO,dont let the minority destroy the majority,chill,breathe in ,breathe out and relax,we all love surfing,love this site and move onwards and upwards,and learn from our mistakes as a community.

  12. All,

    Dropping in whether you are in cloud breaks or bondi or bloody Cornwall is unacceptable, I’m not the greatest surfer but I understand the code the ethics and to be a surfer or call yourself a surfer you need to understand this, I don’t care if you are male or female it’s simple if someone has the wave let them have it and pull off.

  13. I think everyone is missing the true hero in this post and that is Joe, I am digging it brother. Raaaawrr xxx

  14. Some people have surfed all their life. People like this have respect for the water and everyone in it – we call them waterman. The people to learn from… Just because you have been sitting in the water for 20 min and have not gotten a wave doesnt give you the right to ruin someone else’s day. If you cant handle waiting your turn, dont surf. If you cant figure out how to get a wave, sit in the north corner on a foamie. Simple as that. Nobody gives a shit who you are, Kelly Slater or some chick with a warm kind heart on a 20ft board. Everyone is out their for their own reason, and if you cant respect how it works in the water, move to Alexandria. 1ft surf, or 8ft surf, it doesnt matter. It is also a respect thing for your fellow human, a bad drop in is like spitting in someone’s face. I dont agree with the whole ‘chill’ thing. There is a serious problem that has gotten out of control over the last 5 years and it’s going to end in someone being killed by a board after a selfish decision. It’s just a matter of time and all of your know it.

  15. Bondi is a wave of consequence even at half a foot and proper etiquette is a must. I was out there on my step-up yesterday and charged a few bombs. Then a Japanese chick on a bodyboard sprayed me and I got the barrel of my life. Courageously yours, Ed Ryall, Mascot NSW.

  16. Can’t believe that no one has said that SUPs be banned in busy lineups – or just banned outright.

    Said SUPer looks great, but she really should ease off the dropping in. Comments implying that she is not being given a fair go, can’t have witenessed the regularity in which it happens – although I haven’t surfed with her in the past few weeks. The surf is reasonably friendly around here, consistent dropping in doesn’t help that.

  17. This is not a place to take out your frustration on a chick . Seriously its bondi get a life reading this ruins the pics and Sammy move on it happened yesterday and wait your turn ive surfed bondi for the last 20years there’s always dropins …get a girlfriend stop wasting my time reading crisp about a girl dropping on at bondi I say good on her for not letting the boys take every wave . Yew move on

  18. Just don’t drop in.
    Period.
    Let’s respect each other at all costs.
    And give the girls a break – they bring something special to the line up.
    Lead by example – don’t drop in.
    Smile don’t scowl.
    If you want to give someone a verbal drink a mouthful of saltwater instead and shoot them a smile.
    Gift a wave in ten to someone who you know has been battling for a go, even if you’re on the inside.
    A kind word even when you are fuming will change everyone’s day for the better.

  19. I’ve seen her out there everyday . Big, small, freezing . Everyone drops In at bondi she’s on the water everyday and is hot so people just remember her . I don’t surf out bondi anymore – drive up or down the coast everyday to surf even though I live across the road from it and surfed it through my from years . I really enjoy watching her – I’ve seen her catch some bommies and rip last few weeks – I’d like to see the guys have a go at it. Shame there’s no photos of that, or of her on the southbank on her own where she’s been sitting most days . No dropins…goodluck with that at bondi. Perths lucky to just have her and not at least 2others on it. If you wana perform last of turns and have a 1/2 foot wave to yourself surf a real beach up or down the coast .

  20. Its bondi get a life boys. And guy should be gentlemen don’t make excuses and take it so seriously . Not sure if you do it for a career you should be surfing bondi. She’s a well known role model for females and changed my wife’s life – just cause she hasn’t surfed bondi all her life doesn’t mean she has to sit and watch all the boys go on every wave. Stop moaning and go surfing reading this crap makes me not want to visit this site .

  21. Guys really !?! Surely this one person can’t be the biggest issue on such a large stretch of beach , also surprising that if It has been so bad why someone hasn’t attempted a civilised conversation to the said culprit. Our family surfed Bondi 12 years ago and a guy on a big red board ( later became aware of his loss) caught every wave for the 3 days we were there. Just thought it was what happened at a city beach. Come to Portsea this summer ! Your not on your own.

  22. With you kimbo its pretty pathetic that all those that have posted on here have made it out like she’s the only one that dropins at bondi surely there’s bigger problems . I feel sorry for the chick she’s always smiling and it’s not her fault the beach is overcrowded and she gives it a go. I’ve seen great shots of her ripping – sounds more like a case of jealously and guys getting annoyed with a girl dropping in on them Cos there not good enough to get the wave after or before. Its bondi what do you expect , and girls and kids get priority fullstop I’m sick of all these bondi wannabe pro surfers kicking up a fuss about nothing . Surf maccas or head outta town or be encouraging on the water instead.

  23. omg get over it, she does it all the time why should guys give her respect when she gives no repsect to other surfers? treat people how you would want to be treated, now all of you get over about how long you have lived in whatevre suburb or whatever city for how whatever period of time (nobody cares) an realise what is in the photo. A Amazing professional surfer being held back by a classic bondi situation.

  24. Sorry doesn’t fix anything but actions. Thank you all for your words I do understand what I did was wrong and am thankful that I know now to be more mindful and respectful of others. It’s funny I love going out Bondi to catchup with friends, cheer people onto waves and I’m really sad about all this anger against me I really didn’t do anything intentionally, I often catch waves with friends and we get so much joy from riding them in next to each other, also have friends that catch waves with me to teach me how to turn and as my homebreaks are all reef I’m use to guys trying to make me take them…I realise I’ve been totally selfish and that Bondi is busier and people take things more seriously – understandable. It was greedy and selfish of me to dropin on perth – please know though that it was not intentional.

    I struggle to surf in the Eastern Suburbs because of the crowds and dropins and Surfing on a SUP has brought me so much joy and I’ve loved the challenge of surfing it this however is no excuse to dropin on others and get everyone soooo upset. When going for waves I do paddle way before anyone else takes off and to safely get on the wave I put all my focus on getting the wave and do lack paying attention to what else is happening around me. This is not okay and thank you for making this very clear, I agree that they can be unsafe and that I need to be cautious and alert while on the thing. I had actually been making a huge effort to sit on my own bank prior to the incident but as the surf was tiny and I had a lot of my friends in the water thought it was a fun vibe. As it was my last surf in bondi for a while (lucky everyone) I did make a decision to sit on the only bank really breaking that day and have a go at some waves. only because it was tinyyy. I realise that this is no excuse and am sincerely sorry to Perth for ruining his wave and to everyone I’ve upset from the incident. If I do, do it again, yell out to me let me know – give me some tips. If I do surf bondi again I will be making every effort to sit on my own bank and to get joy from giving away my best waves. If possible please don’t comment anymore – I’m pretty sensitive do get the picture and I will be doing everything I can to make the ocean a more happy peaceful place. Oh and thanks Uge for sticking up for me I really appreciate it, love bondi, love and admire so many of the people I seem to be upsetting. I will learn from this and you won’t see me dropping in again. xx

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