A peeler

Intermission

Yesterday’s 3 footers dropped shortly after I shot them. It’s been tiny since. Fortunately at 1:18pm today a new swell will file in. Okay, maybe 1:19pm.

For the rest of the week there is plenty. Pretty chilly – break out the steamer.

Lots of people ask me why I love Hawaii and spend so much time there. Well, watch this and you’ll see.

::uge

The Bondi shuffle

Best seat in the house, Icebergs

Love that Autumn light

This is an Aquabump

Poo stack

Santiago

Race it buddy.

Surface textures, Bondi Beach

Fade.

Bondi 7am, golds. Go for a dip.

3 thoughts on “Intermission

  1. Proof that Bondi is the east sides arsehole!…don’t see any fart release chamber ugly up the natural skyline down bra way…

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