Sadly today is the last post from ‘The Rock’. We’re coming home to Bondi so summer had better welcome us back – none of this torrential rain. It’s been a fantastic month here – waves every single day of this trip. In between the cracks of A-Class breaks there’s plenty to surf with relatively small crowds. You need lots of patience to surf breaks like Waimea, Pipeline, Off the wall – budget 1 wave every 1-2 hours. Go searching and you will find a neat little peak on the golden 7 mile. Also…the Hawaiians are super friendly…I get asked about them all the time. They’re big on etiquette, paddle the inside or get in the way trying to scramble for the shoulder and someone will probably have words. Show respect and patience and all will be fine. The standard of surfing here is incredible.

Remember Turtle Bay Resort are giving away a 1 week stay package to our readership. Enter here and good luck – you’ll love it.

Jon Jon Florence won the Volcom Pipe Pro. Watch

Mahalo :: uge

Last night Pipe was smoking. The people that know were calling it the best in 5 years. It was 8 foot with 10 foot sets. 2nd reef had a few wash thru’s that kept you on your toes. It was glassy and the competition finally finished at 4pm– allowing 70 crew to paddle out with 8 photogs sitting in the channel (no one opted to shoot fisheye – bit dodgey).

Oh, by the way…only swim out if you are a decent swimmer. The water movements are intense and you may get swept away. Enjoy the photos…those barrels looked so much bigger when I was out there!

Adios :: uge

P.S. The Volcom Pipe Pro continues today…check it live.

Let’s talk about something else, See this pic below of a lady with a big grin? That’s Stephanie. She’s Japanese and lives in a beach tent just up from the shack. I don’t think she has a permanent home. Stephanie sells drinks at Pipe to the thirsty onlookers, as there is only 1 real supermarket on the North Shore – the almighty Foodland. She does all right, real pushy saleswoman (I offered her a job in the gallery) – every time she looks at you she’s pushing her product, hard. I see her surf most days, well, kinda…she gets hammered most of the time and doesn’t make it out the back – but she wears a huge smile day in and day out. (That’s until the kids steal the drinks from under her nose as she’s watching Slater tune Pipe.) Nice simple life – and she’s super happy with no possessions, just plenty of Aloha and ocean time.

Have a good day, don’t forget to enter the Aquabumps comp to win 7 nights stay at Turtle Bay Resort (North Shore where I am now) ENTER

Adios:: uge

PS – the swell got so big last night it went under the house!

The Pipe Pro will run tomorrow (most likely)…that is if it calms down  -  it’s maxing right now and the wash through sets from thirds ruin all the fun.

On another note, you can now attend surfing’s biggest night out – the ASP World Surfing Awards held on the Gold Coast. It’s on Thursday 23rd Feb at the Gold Coast Convention and Exhibition Centre – BUY TIX and see the crowning of the champ.

Adios :: uge

The Volcom Pipe Pro started but was called off as it got too big and dangerous. That is something that Hawaiians don’t say too often – TOO BIG. When the comp finished some mental free surfers paddled out to catch some bombs. You really have to be on the shoreline here at Pipe to grasp the amount of water moving here. Let’s say you walked 5 metres into the water – you’d be swept down to Rockies faster than you can run. No one shooting in the water (1st time I’ve seen that) and only 5 guys out at Pipe – that says it all.

Of course the King, Kelly Slater wouldn’t miss a swell and I saw him get out of the water at Pipe – chased by a small pack of hungry women.

The forecast says it’s only going to get bigger. Yes, bigger after a short small spell. Surfline calling 20-25 foot with 30 footers tomorrow and Tuesday. I mean c’mon…

If you’re interested in coming to the North Shore of Hawaii, there is only 1 hotel up here – Turtle Bay. Our buddies at Turtle Bay are giving away a 7 day accommodation package to a lucky Aquabumps reader. Yep. Just go here and enter. Good luck…

Adios :: uge

Back here on ‘The Rock’ we’ve had a bit swell arrive. Not huge, not good enough for them to run the Volcom Pipe Pro – but in my book, pretty darn good…look at these pics and tell me if you’d paddle out.

Scrambled random bits from Hawaii:
Will you get a wave at Pipe? I’d say Pipe is the busiest surf break in the world. There are people on it from sun up to sun down (even in the dark)– minimum 40 out, mostly 60 – 70 crew out. You’ll get a wave if you paddle inside Sunny Garcia and fade Jon Jon. If you got 1 wave per 2 hours, you’d be stoked. This morning Sunny got 3 waves in 1 hr. No one paddles for his waves…Are there other places to surf? Oh boy, there is plenty – but yes, the crowds are big and every pro, upcoming pro, pro jnr or veteran world champion is out there with you. I just can’t believe the talent here. Out of the past 21 days on the North Shore – it hasn’t got below 3 foot – so there are plenty of waves to go around and the etiquette is high. I have only seen 1 big biff at Pipe with a 120kg Hawaiian sending someone in. Good coffee? If you like instant powdered coffee you’ll love it. Oh, and everything has sugar in it…the bread, the baby food, the water. You’ll be a diabetic in no time living here. If you’re a bloke, you drive a pickup or ute here. Biggest one you can afford. Some so big they don’t even fit in the carbays. Oh and you must have an 8.0 litre V8 under the donk. Gas is cheap, 98 cents a litre (go figure). The water temp is 26. Perfect. Same as the land! Boardies all day long. Nightlife? Yep in Waikiki but not on the North Shore – Keep the Country – Country. All the girls surf here – all of them (in thongs)…quite distracting. They tend to be the ones doing all the droppin’ in with a sparkling smile and brilliant tan. You see the girls here paddle out on mals in 8 foot solid. Respect. Tattoos, wow…they’re big here too. If you are a tattoo artist you’d kill it here. Tattoos are a part of the Hawaiian culture. It’s 3hrs ahead and 1 day behind in time here. A mac daddy 12 foot + swell is due on the weekend – yew. That means the Volcom Pipe Pro will run. Frothing. As soon as Pipe gets big I hear 4-5 ambulances a day race past my shack – 1 guy got resuscitated in the water yesterday. 2 weeks ago I shot Pipe from the water and on the way in the current dragged me 400 metres down the beach. It’s mental how much water is moving here. Jamie O’Brien was riding a foamie at 6 foot Pipe switching to a mini board mid barrel. No joke.

Ok, Nuff ramble :: uge

Legend Tony Hawk skated the Bondi bowl yesterday. Watch

Also, our little buddies out Corona took Taylor Steele to the Mentawais on a boat trip – watch

Nuff said. Happy ‘STRAYLA day for tomozza. Great ya flag out and get freaky.

Mahalo :: uge

P.S. I am not revealing where I am staying, exactly, in Hawaii. C’mon, there is nearly 100,000 of you readers including the facey peeps!

The waves in Hawaii have been consistently above head high for weeks now – I’ve filled my quota.

Today was small(ish) so I decided to go beneath the surface for a look around. This is what I found.

The Volcom Pipe Pro waiting period starts today. Day 1 is a Layday. Looks like some swell coming in 2 days time (Wed here, Thurs in Oz). Kelly Slater has rocked up…not sure if he’s surfing in it, but I bet if the waves turn on – yes, he will be out there just to get Pipe without the crowds.

Adios :: u g e

PS – got an ear infection – so no water shots for a few days…torture!

Nearly a million people live here on Oahu – where the famous North Shore resides. The island is made up of so many different races, but it seems many are Japanese, Chinese or Filipino origin. Centuries ago they came out here to work on the sugar cane fields on western boats – now they own most of the local businesses. So you’ll get your shaved ice from Matsumoto’s, or medicines from Long’s or maybe Wong’s…

Anyway, have a good week. I’ll be working on my tan :: uge

I may be in Hawaii right now but the gallery in Bondi is open all weekend – yep!

Later :: uge

The swell dropped another gear and a small windswell is in town here in Hawaii. Sounds similar to Sydney. It’s only 2-3 foot and the beach parks are a wash with major surfing talent. Everywhere you look… airs, hacks, cutties, reverses…The girls rip over here. Check out Coco Ho, niece of famous Derek Ho and ranked 6th in the world last year…Jez Flores (no.15 in the world) was throwing out some heat also in front of our shack.

Have a good day, :: uge

Odd south wind seems to be hanging around, swell dropped a lot overnight (still 4-5 foot). Skies are grey and rain looks like it’s on the cards.

The North Shore Surf Shop Pro Jnr has kicked off today with 100 under 21s shredding sunset. Only 1 Australian in the event – Volcom’s Jordy Lawler.

Back in Sydney the swell has just kicked in from the ENE, 2-4 foot and sunny – now that sounds like it’s time to play hookie and skip work.

Adios :: ugios

Looks like a nice day in Sydney – enjoy the sunshine.

:: uge

See here above is the Hawaiian Monk Seal – a critically endangered species. There are only 1,100 of these seals left in the world and Hawaiian authorities protect them strongly. They feed close to shore and when they feel tired swim up on the sand and sleep for days. This one landed right in front of Pipe and stayed for a day and a half. Not a bad way to spend your day. Sadly 3 Monks were killed in recent months by some messed up people and they’re offering a $30,000 reward on any information leading to the capture of the culprit.

Swell comes back tomorrow…it is going to get big this week. Much bigger than last week (yikes)

Adios :: ugios

The weather back in Sydney looks good. The NE winds are up and you are hitting 26 degrees later today. South swell 3-4ft – I reckon Bondi would be super fun to surf! Hit it.

Have a great weekend, don’t forget out gallery is open all weekend.

Cheers :: uge

Da Hui, is a surf clothing brand born in Hawaii by a group of surfers who are also known as “The Black Shorts”. They’re a bunch of extremely proud people who strongly support the protection of the Hawaiian culture and control the line up here. You know, guys like Eddie Rothman and Clyde Aikau – the guys you don’t mess with.

It’s been pumping too. Yesterday was 8-10 foot Hawaiian – I saw some waves, which erm, dunno how big – but bigger than what I’d like to paddle out in.

Mahalo :: uge

We are based on the North Shore and I can see a guy in a Pipe tube as I write this.

We’re going to be here a while, for something new and until Sydney stops raining. (wow, heard about them storms last night!)

It’s been pumping in Hawaii over the past few days. The swell that this little island attracts is ridiculous. It’s basically a rock sticking out of the middle of the Pacific and swells break unhindered along the North Shore.

Oh and it’s gonna get real big here. I can already feel the shack shaking with the pounding swells out front.

Adios :: uge

These last few days have been exceptionally busy down at Bondi. I’m talking 30 – 40 thousand people on that thin, 1 kilometre slither of sand. That’s rammed! Barely a spare spot to land your towel.

Now, I realise that busy Bondi ain’t for everyone…and it’s probably some peeps worst nightmare…yes yes got it…and all that rubbish and you had trouble parking your car at the local video shop… but… wowsers, what a beaut day to be down the beach. Enjoy it! Love shooting pics of the massive Bondi crowds, very few beaches in the world would attract so many people.

The surf is tiny (1-2 ft) and not really worth talking about. Last week I hope you filled your wave quotas up – it was cranking, everywhere.

These updates may get a little sporadic from here. Thanks for being cool about that…need a bit of time to score a few waves for myself and travel.

The Aquabumps Gallery is back to normally opening hours. 10am to 6pm every single day (including weekends), just not Mondays. 151 Curlewis Street Bondi beach NSW Australia.

Yeha! :: uge

1stly – thank you to all the readers (you) of this over enthusiastic beach photo blog. Some people still come up and say they’ve been reading this for 10 years solid (sorry about all the typos). You are the best.

2ndly – Thanks to the major sponsors of Aquabumps (Canon, Land Rover, Corona and Telstra). Their support means we can keep the updates free for you guys and enables us to do interesting new stuff! Cheers to all our advertisers as well.

3rdly – thanks to all the people that help Aquabumps – the gallery staff (Xtian, Gloria, Amanda, Claire, Big Steve, Loxy, Elliot), also Kelv the IT dude, Dan the Ecomm guy, Misc the bookie, Steve the IT ninja, Wifie the PR manager. A tonne of other people help us out on a sporadic basis (usually for free) – I won’t name them all or you will go to sleep. THANK YOU!

Here is my selection of the best 50 images from 2011. Hope you enjoy them and have a fantastic Christmas and New Year. It looks like we might have some swell for the break – dang!

The gallery will be open for the next few weeks – we just won’t be updating the blog.

:: uge

PS – I am going to Hawaii, so you will be seeing big waves next Jan.

Hang on, it just started pouring as I write this. At least the garden is looking good and your car is salt-free.

Good news – Xmas day should be mostly fine with 26 degrees. We may even have some Christmas swell! Hooray!

It is not too late. Nope. You can still come into the Aquabumps Gallery and we have plenty of Christmas present fodder. We are open 10-6 every day until Christmas. Rock on in.

Seeyouselater :: uge

It’s not too late…

Ok, so you haven’t bought a single xmas present. You’ve spent the whole of December getting’ silly and neglecting your duties to spoil your loved ones with well thought out gifts. We have a solution. An easy one. If you order our giant Aquabumps Book online today (before 3:30pm), and the delivery address is within the Australia Post Next Day Network (check) – you or the recipient will get the book tomorrow. Yes, tomorrow. Or hang on, so you want artwork, if the hundreds of pieces in our Bondi Gallery ain’t what you’re thinking, you can buy gift cards online. Easy! Get busy. We’re open 10am to 6pm every day until Chrissy and you will find us at 151 Curlewis Street Bondi Beach. Call the hotline 02 9130 7788 if any questions or email us.

Ciao :: uge

It’s 1 foot. Sorry I mean 2 foot, flimsy, weak and a little wobbly with some morning junk on it. Good if you’re just starting out in the sport of surfing. The swell source is NE, now that’s no good for Bondi.

The south swell comes back tomorrow – so we should see an improvement then.

The Anchor

8 is a lucky number for the Chinese. At 8 Campbell Parade Bondi a few mates have opened a bar and restaurant. Think margaritas, seafood and tequila. It’s called The Anchor and has been packed since the doors opened a few weeks ago. It’s the old Hungry Czech, yeah that’s right, just under Noah’s Backpackers. It’s small ‘n’ local and open quite late (1am). I’d encourage you to drop by this summer…

Hasta luego :: u g e

The Eye

With all the rain and average surf conditions lately I ventured away from the coast (only for a short while – don’t worry) and was lucky enough to shoot from the new Sydney Tower Eye. It’s a great vantage point to shoot Sydney as its 309 metres high – that’s double the Harbour Bridge! It’s also the first place in Sydney to see the sunrise. You can even see Bondi from up there. Below are some shots from my walk around the tower…you can do the same sky walk that I did – safely chained to a rail so you don’t blow off. Have a look

Keep dry :: uge

You won’t believe it but the Aquabumps Gallery is open all weekend 10am to 6pm. Come in and do your Christmas shopping, this is your last weekend to do so! Or buy a gift card online and we’ll post it out in a fancy card and package.

Have a good day, :: uge

It’s 4-5 foot, a tad too big for the banks at Bondi to handle. The flanking south winds seem to be causing havoc as well….there is plenty of junky chop out there.

Bondi had a couple of guys, they didn’t get much.

Bronte had a handful, they got some, wobbly ones…worth getting wet for.

Ok, Xmas is 10 days away and you have present anxiety. We can help. If you order a Aquabumps Book today online, we will NEXT DAY POST it so most main city areas will have it tomorrow. Yep tomorrow. You can have a different shipping address to billing (whoa), so we can just send it directly to your friends and family – or even clients. Too easy! Otherwise if you have time, we have plenty of stock, frames, books all under the Aquabumps gallery roof in Bondi. 151 Curlewis Street Bondi Beach.

Adios :: ugios

bye :: uge

Bondi was looking horrible with the southerly tearing it apart @ 25 knots – no one out. Bronte had a lil’ sumpin’…a bump that you could ride. Didn’t see anything else.

Go windsurfing – that looks like more fun today. Windy tomorrow too!

Not long until Christmas. 12 days to be exact. And guess what – our gallery is open! 151 Curlewis Street Bondi Beach NSW T91307788. If you’re wondering what to give all your clients – our book? We’ve got plenty.

bye :: uge

Wow. It was one of the most intense storms I’ve seen.

Today – well, in comparison, it’s boring. The waves are onshore mush, I saw one guy, a Chinese tourist fully dressed trying to go for a swim (not recommended) – but that was about it down there this morning. I didn’t even shoot as sticking a lens out of the car window with pelting rain ain’t much fun.

Byron Bay wonder Kieren Perrow won big Pipe yesterday. Insert Clap.

“The Reef” a mash up of talented men – Jon Frank, Richard Tognetti and Mick Sowry travelled from Darwin to Perth this year, making music, movies and surfing along the way to form a mixed media performance. Tickets on sale tomorrow, 1 show only at the Sydney Opera House. Will be good.

The Aquabumps gallery is open today. Good thing about this rain is you’ll probably get a park right out the front. Telephone 02 9130 7788 or email us any Christmas Present questions. We are open until 6pm every day.

Last night before I closed my eyes I checked the weather and it said “Showers in the morning, clearing”. Couldn’t be any further from the truth.

Clear skies, 24 degrees, blue water, chest high waves and tight wolf pack of diverse surfing skill burning each other. Just another day down at Bondi.

On the weekend there is a shoulder high ENE swell coming. Nothing great, it also looks like it could rain all weekend. Yay – it’s been at least 12 hours since the last down pour. Go shopping.

Aquabumps Xmas Orders Close Sunday

Christmas Day is 2 weeks away and creeping up on us. Here in the Aquabumps Gallery we stock plenty of prints, but only a 2% of our huge catalogue. If you want something custom printed, framed and picked up from Bondi before Xmas day you need to get your orders in before Sunday 6pm. You can do it online, you can come into the store or phone 9130 7788 or email us. We are open all weekend 10am to 6pm and you will find us at 151 Curlewis Street Bondi Beach. See you soon.

:: uge

I’d agree and say it’s going to rain until next Wednesday. Fortunately there are waves, 2-3 footish. But these morning high tides are making it pretty fat.

The Hawaii Banzai Pipe Masters looks like it will kick off on the 8th December with a big swell hitting (remember they are a day behind). Webby

If you are bored at work, I thought this little video was well made. A little long (grab a cuppa) with some average surfing…but the scenery is magical

With all this rain I am sure you don’t feel like being outside and Christmas shopping. Shop online! Get a book from us, or maybe a gift card, or a little piece from the gallery.

Bye :: uge (just for the record that is pronounced yooj. Not ugg, not oog, not egg, not huge but that’s ok)