Yeah - BRA.

Road Trip

We were up early in the dark, stalking rideable waves. We ended up at Maroubra, just south of us. It was a quiet morning down there. The nemesis SSE 15-knot gale is getting in everywhere, so quality is low; waves are overhead high though. These breezes are leftovers of that tropical cyclone – I’ll be […]

See full post & more photographs
Lip strike, 6:20am

Excursion

I took the mini-froth-lords on an excursion to an east-facing beach – hoping for bigger waves and less crowd. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! We discovered 3-4 foot bowls amongst an early (chaotic) crowd. I always thought Bondi was the pinnacle of surfing chaos – we’re not alone! NW winds and plenty […]

See full post & more photographs
Frothin' grom, Noah Bowler shredding

Dim.

Now that we’ve passed the winter solstice, the year’s shortest day is behind us. It’s allllll gravy from here, folks. The mornings will be brighter, the days longer and 4-6 foot daily. Ok, maybe the last part is a lie. This morning it was incredibly dark, hard for me to shoot. The swell has plummeted, and three […]

See full post & more photographs
Coogee, cooling off after a very hot night

Peaky Windswell

After a restless, hot night, many were up for the early as the NE wind swell continued to deliver. At exposed East facing beaches, waves broke in the head-high vicinity. South-facing Bondi had fat shoulder high waves amongst a very full morning high tide. It’s cloudy now and reasonably cool compared with yesterday. The sunshine […]

See full post & more photographs
Grayson Hinrichs destroying lips in glorious backlit golds, Bondi

The Clinic

Today is all about surfing as there are waves and coach Blake had a frothin’ pack of groms that he’s trying thrust onto the ‘CT. Good luck snagging a wave of this pack when sessions are on – they’re a hungry wolf pack. Pleasant conditions with golden light, clean surfaces and head high waves (adult […]

See full post & more photographs
What? It cannot be - solar! Bondi this morning

Bladerunner

Remember the movie Bladerunner? In every scene, it’s raining. A bit like Sydney. Everywhere I go, I’m wet – soggy. I’ve even stopped wearing shoes in big downpours – and just roll around bare feet. Fun, isn’t it? The postie rocked in with knee-high gumboots – that’s the ticket, clever. There’s a rumour people are […]

See full post & more photographs
Bronte pool, a hub for sunrise swimmers

Feb so far…

I saw the sun last night, around 7 pm. I swear. There’s proof of my Instagram stories. It was hot, clear(ish) and beach weather, for about 1 hour…blink and you missed it. #notfakenews When is the rain going to stop? Mid next week, hopefully. Until then, we’re in for a deluge. There are small waves, […]

See full post & more photographs
Blake ‘BT’ Thornton - charging this morning

Crank

In the words of Strider Wasilewski, said with the same enthusiasm, “It’s firing out there”. Well, it was firing this morning before the wind came up. After days of constant onshore breezes, we finally scored a diamond day, gentle offshores with 4-6 foot chunks and spitting barrels. I swam for hours as ferocious rips tried […]

See full post & more photographs
Crew! Bondi Beach

Pump / Dump

Hey hey!  It’s just like yesterday, but bigger. We’ve had an excellent run of weather and waves over the past couple of weeks. The water remains a very comfortable 22ish degrees…the Gold Coast was 25 on the weekend! The swell is on the decline and will get smaller for the rest of the week. There’s […]

See full post & more photographs
Blake Thornton, always finds them

Murky Waters

All that recent rain has created some strange coloured ocean water in NSW. It’s currently an unattractive green-brown colour – stained from all the muddy river outflows along this state’s coast. Just imagine how much water has been flowing from the land out to sea this week – incredible. Warragamba Dam alone spewed out the […]

See full post & more photographs
Lifeguard, ex QS surfer - Blake Thornton

Relief

After days of onshore, it’s was clean this morning. As I write this post, the winds are swinging from the SW to the N. The beaches (all East beaches) were packed as everybody has been holed up at home, hiding from the rain. A cracker day ahead. 23 degrees. I like those digits. For the […]

See full post & more photographs
Good morning Tamarama

Deprived

It’s been a tough week for us surfers due to a lack of swell. I bet there are some cranky pant foam riders reluctantly working from home…looking very detached in their zoom calls. I bring good news; next week has plenty of swell – but also plenty of onshore wind (and rain). I don’t care, […]

See full post & more photographs
Grayson Hinrichs on the morning shred

Crank

A bit of crank to the bump this morning. Some fresh East swell and our beaches are lovin’ the tweak in direction. It’s head high and clean. The WFH’s (Working From Home’s) were out in full force, Sydney’s surf beaches are rammed! I’m not just talking surfing – but anything outdoors. The surf forecast for […]

See full post & more photographs