Goofy vs Natural
Fact: The best waves in Indonesia are usually lefts. It’s due to the physical orientation of Indonesia and how it relates to the South Westerly swell source. On a boat charter, there is a constant divide between the natural footers and goofys – we’ve got a 50-50 split this year and the wolf pack go […]
The Bush
I’ve been out to the Mentawais 17 times now on these boats. Why? The surf is amazing. Full stop. For consistency and diversity of waves, I can’t think of another destination that compares. Admittedly, it’s not for every surfer, most waves are breaking on sharp shallow reefs and offer dreamy tubes…but it can get dangerous […]
On-shaw
It’s pretty grubby out there. That nemesis onshore is ruffling our little 2-3 footers. Cloudy morning with very few people around – hope the sleep in was good! Not much to write about or shoot today… Weather is warming up towards the end of the week – beach time! :: uge
#YES!
I vote YES to surfing today! YES! tick. Suns out, waves are consistent, rip bowls are on. It’s pretty crowded and hard to get a wave at Bondi, so I would go for a drive and score my friends. The weather is just awesome and tomorrow is going to hit 28 degrees. Perfect for the […]
Bon Voyage
I write to you from the middle of the treacherous Mentawai strait…yes, we’re heading home. The Ratu Motu chugs along at 13 knots heading for the mainland port of Padang. It’s silky smooth and our 3 storey/39 metre chunk of steel is barely rocking. Blessed. You’ve all read stories of Mentawais, it’s a well trodden path […]
My Mission
I take photos every day. That’s been my calling in life for some time now. Some days are more photogenic than others. Some days I’ve got the trigger finger on flat biccie – like Tony Montana in the final scenes of Scarface. Sometimes I labor over the shots…trying all kinds of fancy dance work to […]
Paradise
After nearly two weeks of back to back swells in the Mentawais it’s finally gone flat. Good timing really as we are heading home with sore shoulders and good memories. One of the best trips I’ve had up here with superb weather and waves 11 days out of 12. This afternoon we parked the boat […]
L I F T
Let’s get high together…high above the beach for my favourite angle. My buddy PB has rolled up with the bird so we can show you these incredible beaches from the air. Water looks so blue from up there! Finally the wind has dropped a few gears and they’ve started the Volcom Pipe Pro. Pipe ain’t […]
H A I R C U T
It would be very generous to say that the surf is small today. It’s tiny, similar to a lake. Today is one of those days to do something else. I’m gonna get my annual haircut, tired of looking like a homeless person. The sun is blaring…a walk, run, swim is definitely on the cards. Chance […]
Spinning Rims
The swell has arrived and so has it’s buddy the onshore wind. Waves are breaking higher than your heads (even on tall people like myself), but some serious onshore wobble out there. I didn’t feel compelled to paddle out…save it for another day. Owning a car around Bondi is a bit of a nightmare…no parking…and […]
BONDEYE
You’ve got to be pretty happy with this week so far… There’s been something to ride most days…and more coming. Weather has been rather pleasant as well. Today I took photographs (note, not captures, I hate when people call photos captures) down at good ole Bondeye. The swell has swung around to the South so […]
Benvenuta Primavera
This week marks the start of spring…and hasn’t it lived up to our expectations. Today is yet another perfectly sunny, salubrious spring day. The promenade at Bondi was packed by 6:30am with joggers, dawdlers, yogies, swimmers and 4 surfers. In true spring fashion, the waves were tiny. Gone are the monster winter swells and here […]
Gold Plated
If you braved the chill and rolled down the hill to Bondi you would have found some entertaining waves this morning. It’s around 3-4 foot, offshore, clean and working on a few banks. The side-on light broke through around 7am, gold plating everything in its course (my favourite). A rare tube was on offer right […]