Uncle Joel Pilgrim, takes trust to shoot this close!

Back in Da Hood

Hey, HEY! I’m back in the ‘hood and there’s plenty going on around here. Bondi really steps up a gear in Jan…there’s just so many tourists in town and the beach is one helluva melting pot. Good to start the year with a classic ‘Bergs sunrise, some waist to shoulder high runners on an A-grade […]

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Bubba has that look in his eyes, hunting sections

#Goodtimes

Game on. Before you drop everything and sprint away from your office desk, hear me out. Swell has cranked right up overnight and from the SE. Winds are perfectly offshore. It’s breaking in the 3-5 foot range, but it’s pretty hard work at Bondi, and very fickle with the tide. Lots of closeouts but some […]

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Perth Standlick finding mini ramps at Bondi this morning

Two to Three

There is a little wave on, it’s only 2-3 foot…but very junkie and tide affected (fat). It was a 6:30 am high tide so I imagine it will improve at the tide draws out. The water is still very warm whilst the autumn air temps are slipping down. The Aquabumps Gallery Bondi is closed on […]

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Perth Standlick, good timing with the light behind

Turbo Shoreys

I’ve always wanted to shoot surfing in France. It’s on my list. They say waves break there, very close to shore and hollow. I guess Bondi is doing it’s best summer impersonation of France today with a very hollow, abrupt shorey. It’s 3-4 foot, chunky, bumpy, lumpy, junky…but hollow. With the big tides and a full […]

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Chocolate swirls Clouds

Anti-Climax

I was getting all excited about today, put time aside to paddle out and sample some for myself… on paper, it looked good, offshore and building south swell (8 foot tonight). Benny from Coastalwatch was even classifying today in the ‘EPIC’ range. So there I was, waxing my 7’2″ Rhino (thinking I would be doing […]

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Love that metallic highlight

El Darko

We haven’t had many clouds in the mornings lately. We’ve had an awesome run. Today was dark, dark. Little light to work with for most of my morning wandering. Bondi has waves, it’s settled quite nicely. I saw head high waves breaking on multiple banks. Plenty to go around. Enjoy. Oh, I am heading to […]

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Chris Friend, suns out, fins out!

Fortune

Bondi had some really fun waves this morning. We’re all loving our new sand banks created from the recent mega swell. Lots of peaks up and down the beach, so many options.  It was only head high, but there’s a bit of lip to it…making it rippable. Mum, that translates to ‘Good waves to surf’ […]

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A really nice moment as the sun rose

Turning on…

A nice morning to wake up to 6-foot waves in Sydney. The offshores are freezing though. Dress up for the occasion. It’s a south swell and a bit too big for Bondi, which was empty. Bondi can’t handle waves over head high – we need a reef for that. A few nooks and crannies around the […]

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Perth Standlick, South Bondi, 7:45am, finding rampage

Volatile

Volatile weather at the moment in Sydney. You just can’t predict what’s next. Last night we had some very heavy downpours. At sunrise it was pitch black and drizzly. Then, around 7:30am it busted out into sunshine?? Waves – yes, it’s bigger today with a few little sections. Windy – yes, that too. Looks like […]

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Joe Dirt frames up as Perth Standlick soars

Muggy

Good morning! Wasn’t it a humid one? It’s typical of this time of year, warm starts with cloudy skies. Makes for a good morning swim. Waves – yeah, there were a few. It is still on the small side, 1 to 2 foot. I have good news, though, I reckon we will get a small […]

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Bondi Beach at sunrise this morning

Weed

We’ve got a weed problem in Bondi. It’s everywhere. It’s pretty serious. A fresh batch has rocked up and has taken over the joint (excuse the pun)! Some people love getting on the weed, I’m not that keen, I find it slows me down…sometimes holds me under. Stinks too. Waves – gone. From 4-5 foot […]

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Let’s Ride…

This morning got off to a very grey start. The residual storm cloud is still lingering. It rained. It drizzled…and it felt warm and cold all at the same time. I’m confused what clothes to wear? Tomorrow is forecasted for a record breaking 26 degrees. 26 in the middle of winter? Whaaat? I hope you […]

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Good run

Well…that was a pretty special weekend of weather and waves – init? That NE swell sure was providing. All the exposed East breaks lit up and the beaches were packed. Very typical summer conditions. Today, 3 foot. East swell. Still the goods. I bet you’ve been watching the Pe’ahi Challenge live (Jaws). It’s insane. How’s […]

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