180

This morning did a complete 180. At 6am you could hear the pitter-pattering of rain on our roof. I hit the snooze button a few times before rolling down to the beach. Upon arrival the clouds parted and it transformed into a nice day. Small waves as well, mainly the 2 foot variety. Bondi is […]

See full post & more photographs

Cosi Cosi

Things were looking up at the beach this morning. The surf conditions have improved. I saw waves around chest to head high. It was good on the lower tide – not so great on the incoming high tide (now). Some interesting light beams lately…some call them “The Fingers of God”. Always something new down the […]

See full post & more photographs

Crook

Good morning. Apart from some pretty amazing light dancing through the gaps in the clouds there wasn’t a lot going for this morning. The waves are a grovely chest high…extremely onshore affected. Only two guys out at South Bondi which says it all. Pretty chilly morning, around 7 degrees before the sun rose. Days like […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday

It’s much nicer down the beach since the rain stopped. There are waves, 3-4 footers, but they’re pretty random and a tad messy. It’s mainly a windswell with a 7 second wave period. Tomorrow will be better… It’s scary to think that Christmas is only 5 weeks away. How about that…where did this year go? […]

See full post & more photographs

D A M P

There is a little, fun, flimsy wave on. It will only be found at beaches that face East…like Maroubra, Manly etc. You won’t find any joy at Bondi. The main show is tomorrow when the swell jacks right up above our heads. So maybe rest, recuperate and soak up these glorious winter rayz until then. […]

See full post & more photographs

S M O T H E R

Hope you all had a good sleep in. You missed absolutely nothing down the beach this morning. It’s the pits. A 30 knot onshore smothered any goodness…only saw a learner class in the North of Bondi…that’s about it…maybe crank the work. Keramas is pumping for the world tour stop No.5…I just wish the generator would […]

See full post & more photographs

C R E A S E D

This south swell seems to be having trouble sorting itself out. It needs a good strong offshore to iron out all creases. Waves are breaking in the 4 foot plus range this morning at Bondi but they were wobbly and random. Very few guys surfing. Bronte had a little something on offer – but it’s […]

See full post & more photographs

Flab Slab

There is plenty of swell today. Bondi was breaking around 6 foot earlier this morning – not looking too pretty as the banks struggle to hold such size. We just don’t have any reefs around here that can take such force. I went for a drive to a Sydney slab thinking it might just switch […]

See full post & more photographs

Straight horizons

The clouds are slowing clearing and it is nice and calm down the beaches. Bondi barely had a wave. Knee choppers. It will warm up to 26 degrees today before rain and cold weather tomorrow. Tomorrow the waves are also tiny. Saturday there should be something for you to ride (head high). Phew. Good bye […]

See full post & more photographs

Scorcher

Hola! If you were one of the lucky ones that got up early and made it down the beach this morning you’d be happy. There were two distinctive peaks breaking…both with a waist to shoulder high wave. The heat was on early and it is going to hit 33 degrees today. No typo. 33. SMH […]

See full post & more photographs

Rippy Rights

Good morning… Think we might have a few more people following us today after this…welcome newbies. Welcome. I’ve said this many times recently, but today is a cracker and you shouldn’t be behind the desk. The sun will cook to 30 degrees – hit the beach. The rip bowl rights were fun and around chest […]

See full post & more photographs

Final Voyage

We spent 12 days at sea surfing 12 different surf breaks amongst 3 overlapping swells in the Mentawais. We had 7 surfers on board the 47-foot Tengirri catching on average 40-50 waves each per day, sometimes more. Most days we’d surf 3 times on waves no smaller than 3 foot and no bigger than 8 […]

See full post & more photographs

Air Strike

We cruised the Tengirri back up the island chain for a change of scenery and came across 5 of the hottest young aerialists competing for a cool 50 grand. Yep, 50 gees to pull off the most rad air whilst on their boat trip to the Mentawais. Chippa Wilson, Jon-Jon, Ryan – they were all […]

See full post & more photographs