I’m baaaack

I am back from my 4 week sabbatical and pleased to find 3-4 footers down at Bondi. Yeah it was a little bumpy, dumpy and random but highly surfable and very few out. So I’ve been hearing ALL about the past 2 weeks of south swell madness. How fortunate for you. Hope you’ve scored your […]

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The unexpected

I didn’t quite know what to expect down the beach this morning. I was leaning more to the pessimistic side as I couldn’t see much water moving from my bedroom window at 6:20am. After spending 5 mins on the cold sand, Jono (one of the regulars) took off, pulled into a snug barrel, flew out […]

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Morning Sickness

Don’t believe the hype…the predicted south swell has dropped rather than spiking up. Some sort of morning-junk-wobble-extravaganza going down – which made it look very ordinary at sunrise. It got a little better towards 9am, but only half as good as I thought it’d be. 3 footers, SW winds, moments of sunshine. Weekend outlook: SE […]

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Blood

It’s not too often I can say this, but it looks quite tasty out there right now. We’ve got a spike in swell producing waves around 3-4 foot at Bondi. Ok, so there’s still some leftover junk from recent winds, but it looks beltable with some meaty sections. I’d say an early paddle would be […]

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Served Chilled

I was quite surprised to see a small, clean swell still chuggin’ into the bay at day break. I suspect it will fade quickly though as the swell charts show a rapid decline in energy around lunchtime. There’s a nice (small) left in the corner with barely anyone out….1-2 foot. I’d say the extremely cold […]

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Intermission

Yesterday and Tuesday this week were incredible days to be a surfer in Sydney. Everyone has stories of scoring gold. Well, the epic SE swell has died from yesterday… and we’ve only had a few hour gap before a brand spankin’ new south swell has arrived. Wish I had a time lapse series from this […]

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Gold

What a magic day to not be in the office. 3-5 foot waves, clean offshores and finally some sunshine – the 3rd day without rain in a month. Bondi had some great waves at sunrise. A left was putting on some barrells, but I reckon that would be a common story on many beaches in […]

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Rip Bowls

Hola. Nice little wave breaking down at Bondage – nasty rip sucking you out to Ben Buckler though. That kept me busy all morning whilst swimming with zee camera. Hard to stay in one place. Waist high/2 footers rockin’ in. Water is warm, no wind, and plenty of sunshine to enjoy the dregs of summers. […]

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Autumn Chill

The first morning in months where you could feel that autumn chill in the air. Coulda done with a jumper. Water is still warm, waves are still 1-2 foot, clean, crisp and playful. Tomorrow the waves should pick up in the afternoon, Friday will be a 3 foot playground and the weekend has some new […]

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Vivid

The swell is dissipating – and so is the rain – alleluia. Bondi had a weak, floppy 1-2 foot wave this morning – with a large number of people out. It’s not going to get any better for a while so best utilize what’s on offer with a large chunk of fibreglass e.g. Mal, Fish. […]

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onshore galore

Easterlies are the devil wind for us….basically messes up most locations. Disappointing morning down at Bondi, a small crew grovelling over 1-2 foot slop. The rest of the week looks like there is a strong easterly swell, but it’s going to also be onshore until Friday…so the options are narrow. I like Thursday at dusk […]

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Pulse

Glorious day outside… These sneaky little swells seem to pop up for a few hours and then dissipate just as fast as they arrive. Last night switched on with a small pulse, and again this morning – ah yes, warm water, offshore winds and 2 footers pushing into the bay…nice. Big crowd were on it […]

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Shorey Glory

It’s small. Mainly just a shorey slappin’ on the beach. So small even Jono (AKA the mad professor) was soft sand jogging and not surfing. Now that’s small – that man can sniff a 1ft set out of Lake Bondi any day. Mighty fine morning though, after the early clouds dissipated we’re left with clear […]

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