Thursday, September 08, 2005

Hola! The Mentawai Islands turned it on again for another day. Swell
was slightly larger than yesterday, but cleaner. We surfed 4-5 foot
cranking left all day. Bit of morning sickness on it early, but
it cleaned up to pure silk by the afternoon. Crowds – large.
This break (not naming) has some of the clearest water I’ve
ever seen – and apparently it gets better. Spent 11 hours
in the ocean torn between surfing and shooting. Most of the time
was spent below the surface laying on my back to the reef checking
it all out…some incredible things happen down there…just gotta
remember to come up for air….a silent world of buckling water
mounds as surfers mutilate the silk surfaces.

 

Enough ramble. Hope work is good.
Adios, ::Uge (5,000 kms north of
the bondi border)

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