Friday, June 29, 2007

crossoverswells How good has the past few days been? Just ridiculous. So as the smokin’ ESE swell of the past 3 days declined overnight, a new south swell starts pumpin’ into town. The ocean looked confused this morning as the two swells from different origins wobbled their way into our bays. It’s still around 6 […]

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Thursday, June 28, 2007

peakin’Like my friend Nicky always says about her husband Jamie…"it peaked early". The predicted monster swell for today actually arrived a day early. Yesterday afternoon lit up as Sydney was bombarded with a huge ESE swell. I saw waves on sundown around the 10-12 foot solid mark. Only a handful of surfers braving the large […]

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Wednesday, June 27, 2007

XXXL.June is big season. Write it down. Only been back from Mentawai 6 days and have witnessed 2 of the biggest swells of the year. At 6:40am I peeped through the blinds expecting a swell increase…and wow, we got one. Saw a monster 8 foot set peeling across the bay bathed in beautiful morning light. […]

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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

skankshank It’s been big huh. The beefy south swell of the past few days has subsided this morning as a strange NE wind butchers. Bondi has some rideable 2-3 footers in the southern corner, but they looked really fat and a skanky black sludge was seeping into the line up from all the rain water […]

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Friday, June 22, 2007

stormsSo what’s been happening since my Mentawai disappearance kids? "Storms" seems to be the common thread in everyone’s convo. Big storms. Like 30 year storms. Big tankers wrecked in Newy, big swells, sand pushed onto roads blah blah. But dang it’s cold back here. Freezing today. Haven’t worn shoes let alone much clothing for two […]

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Tuesday, June 19 2007

Statistics.12 days, 6 surfers, 400 nautical miles traveled, 20 cartons of Bintangs drank (mostly by Damo), 85 kit kats, 40 Tim Tams, burning 4000 litres of diesel, 15 breaks surfed, 0 Broken boards, 1 spilt open head, the captain smoked 3 cartons of ciggies (and he’s on a health kick he reckons), 6 ipods, 6 […]

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Monday, June 18 2007

tidur.I woke to our Indonesian deckhand ‘Indurah’ calling ‘Ombak tidur’ (the waves are sleeping). Yep he nailed it. They’re definitely sleeping. After a week of smokin’ waves it’s backed off…making for an opportune time to go through 50 gig of hot shots and give the body a chance to repair its aches and pains. We […]

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Friday, June 15 2007

I like pasta.Any joint named after tubular shaped pasta has got to be worth surfing. Especially when you get it on its day. Today’s it’s smoking up here in Mentawai Islands (Indonesia). The forecasted swell arrived with all it’s grunt. Up here a good swell is 17 second period at 10 – 14 foot (summary […]

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Thursday, June 14, 2007

Day 5 on the boatOpen any surf mag and you’ll find a photo of a guy in a barrel taken from the water. Yeah that old chestnut. I gotta say, never really tire of looking at barrel shots. Like this photo above. A young Frenchie slotted well deep in a Thunders pit at sunset. All […]

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