Wednesday, 30 April 2008

Jungle rightsAfter 3 days of surfing a left, we cruised south to find our own perfect 4 foot right hander hugging the edge of a jungle riddled point. Not a boat in sight. 30 minutes after the 1st wave a local villager paddled out in his dugout canoe, caught 2 waves (don’t think he sees […]

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Tuesday, 29 April 2008

men-tah-whyIt’s just been silly up here in the Mentawai Islands (Indonesia). 3 days of non-stop epic waves. Not massive (4-6 foot), just smokin’…these islands were only discovered as a surf destination in early 90’s, predominantly by an Aussie – Martin Daly, who was a salvage diver – distracted by the local world class waves. It’s […]

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Monday, April 28, 2008

Indonesia arguably has some of the best surf in the word. More specifically, the Mentawai Islands has the highest concentration of world-class breaks within a 100 mile radius. The Mentawai islands are located 150 kilometres south of Padang, Sumatra, well in the middle of no where. Mentawai Islands are exposed to the extreme swells that […]

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Thursday, 24 April 2008

Finally the persistent rain has stopped and we can go outdoors…the winds have backed off a little and a new east swell is showing some promise. Bondi remains severely junkie and unsettled – but surfable if you haven’t been out in a while. Very few waves were holding up at all. Tomorrow should be a […]

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Wednesday, 23 April 2008

There are waves this morning as we’ve got a new east swell and relatively clean conditions (well compared to recent dayz). I’ve been down the beach a few times trying to get some shots, but every time it pours (is this rain going to stop?). Bondi had a little (junkie) wave still shaken up from […]

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Tuesday, 22 April 2008

cranky It’s been pretty onshore and ugly for 9 days now…but I have to say today is probably the ugliest. Yikes. Totally onshore, with 15 knots of sou-easterly and only touching 3 feet. The odd optimistic lone wolf is out not doing much. BUT there is light at the end of this dark tunnel. Friday […]

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Monday, 21 April 2008

Summers definitely over now as we enter the 8th day in a row with onshore winds and rain. Well there was a narrow window of offshore SW this morning, but the ocean is showing signs of recent agitation and by 9am the onshores rocked in. Waves are up around 3-4 foot and very surfable…low crowds […]

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Friday, 18 April 2008

You gotta love winter. Especially 5 days in a row of it. Looking out the window all you see is dark greys and pouring rain. Everything seems to slow down a little and you exchange that Peroni for a hot cup of hot Milo. Swells are also generally bigger in winter, but sometimes we catch […]

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Thursday, 17 April 2008

The big question today is when is this southerly onshore stream going to end? Well no time soon. Swell is stacking up – sets around 6-7 foot at Bondi today, but it’s so messy that no lone wolves have dared the paddling frustration. North Bondi has some sort of warped, chopped up lump breaking, but […]

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