What’SUP Tommie Carroll

Sorry about the late update…few technical issues on level 5… Seeing the waves were fairly small today and a mix of NE and SE swells, a trip over to the Northern Beaches to stand up paddle with 2 x world champion Tom Carroll was the best option. Paddling around his home break, Newport, in 1-2 […]

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the now

There’s not much to write about today (surfwise). I’m a little stumped for words. Onshaw, small and grey. If you find yourself paddling out there you’ve got plenty of spare time. Pass the crumpets ol’ boy. Tomorrow – same same but cleaner. Saturday – bigger 3 feet…and some east swell action approaching. Better still, 27 […]

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G RO M S

I like the mornings. Especially this morning when it’s warm in and out of the water. The swell has evaporated overnight but I still found a tiny bump in the middle…plenty out, plenty to dodge. Meet Ethan Davis (1st pic of today’s update). He’s 12 years old and only been surfing for 8 months. A […]

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1 hit wonder

On my way home from the gallery last night I saw sets at Bondi tipping the 4 foot range. At the time I was quite impressed, thinking this morning might have something decent to ride as a predicted wind change was imminent. And SO…rolling down the hill (in a hurry) this morning to catch the […]

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Monday Mush

Howdy. Mighty fine grey, wet, onshore morning out there. In between rain squalls I ducked down to survey the surf conditions – D I R E. Absolutely forget about it. In fact, this week looks pretty average for surfing. You’ll be very productive for the next 5 days at work for sure. Design For Humanity […]

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Freedom Town

Crazy morning, everyone and I mean everyone was out – pros, beginners, groms, knee boarders, body boarders, dudes in helmets, stand ups, swimmers and lame photographers frolicked in the line-up. The first spark of good weather and it’s a free for all…welcome to Freedom Town…go right on lefts, drop in on 10 of your buddies […]

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Brink

Things are changing, the water is a degree warmer, the car parks are full at sunrise and the swell radar has a lot of noughts on it. Good bye rogue winter swells, hello sunshine. Pack the performance boards away and bring out the four-finned, short’n’fat sled. Grovel time. It’s going to get warm tomorrow (25) […]

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W e t

I was up a little later than usual and swam with my camera today. Think I missed a fruity sunrise. Rips at Bondi were on turbo (even though it was small)…especially the bank near the guard tower – wow, need a nap under my desk now! Small 2 footers with infrequent 3 footer sets. Nothing […]

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onslaw

Yesterday’s good waves and sunshine are now a distant memory as a southerly rain storm has rolled into town. 2 guys paddled out at Bondi – Will Ranken and Phil Geurs but they returned to the beach after 1 wave – that says it all, those regulars will surf anything (Man grommets). Do something else […]

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morning slice

I love these mornings. Crisp morning light with a consistent south swell and not many crew around as it’s a school day. The sun now rises well out to sea in its summer position creating green, backlit walls. It’s a sweet mix between warm in the sun, chilly in the shade. Summer is close. After […]

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Early Colour

You might be looking out your window now thinking it’s grey, gloomy and wet…but at 6:00am it was a different story. Before the storm was a spectacular sunrise full of colour, calm conditions and small dribbly surf. Tama + Bronte had a small weak wave (2ft), nothing worth pursuing. Bondi was even smaller, 1 footers […]

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twenty-7

Hi. Nice morning again with moments of sunshine and warmer temperatures. Plenty out enjoying a hint of summer. Bondi was a sorry 1 foot grovel so a short spin to the Bra was probably the best option. The onshore NE winds down there made a mess of things though…at least it was bigger – and […]

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Shelter

I know I should have driven elsewhere. The east swell was dropping and south facing Bondi was neglecting the source. I could only salvage 1-2 footers on low tide banks down Bondeye. I’d think it would be 2-3 foot at exposed beaches, and definitely cleaner today as the winds backed down. It’s been a bit […]

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The Bay of Plenty

Shooting good images on a day like today can be a little tricky. There’s barely any light and most photos turn to a wash of grey. Morning rain isn’t the best shutter lubricant either. Most waves I saw this morning closed out before anyone could get to their feet. Shame, ‘cause there is plenty of […]

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Chop Hop

When the regulars are still in the cot or fiddling with their car radios in the parking lot you know the surf is bad. Even though there is swell from the east, a nemesis onshore breeze is making mince of anything decent rolling in. Pass. Wind’s gonna blow NE 15-20 knots later today – will […]

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Flipside

The swell direction has switched after that south change yesterday afternoon. The ocean looks a little confused, bumpy and lumpy. I reckon the dregs of that east swell is to blame. Should clean up as the day progresses (but the east wind is due mid-afternoon). 2-3 footers out there right now. Weather looks to be […]

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Ze dribble…

Went down from my lil’ dawdle and was surprised to find rideable 2 footers…ok, maybe 1 or 2 were a tad bigger. It’s lacking omfff but the sunshine was out early making for inviting conditions. To go or to not go? Go! (but maybe take a large wave riding craft) The ’morrow will be bigger […]

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lucky

Spend a week in the concrete jungle of Singapore and you really appreciate how lucky we are to live so close to a decent beach – with waves. This morning the NE swell is in Sydney and breaking around 2 foot at Bondi. Looked very weak and flimsy, but rideable if keen (or if been […]

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Foggy

Hola. I am not in Sydney at the moment but my spies on the ground tell me there is a NE swell in town, junkie, and getting into Bondi at 2-3 foot. They say it’s ok for a paddle at sunrise in the fog, best to go early before the wind picks up from the […]

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Confession

Ok ok, time for me to ‘fess up. I’m thousands of kilometres from Bondi this morning so I have no fancy imagery taken of the current conditions. I bet it was the best sunrise in 20 years and cranking. My prediction is it’s around 2-3 foot, from the south and will be some fun – […]

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