Happy Mondays

Monday’s are a good day. Start of a new week and all the office workers are hiding in their cubicles recuperating from a weekend of debauch activities. Yes I’m talking to you Birdie. The line-up at South Bondi is quiet, empty and resembling a country beach. Who’d thought 20,000 people graced these shores only a […]

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All Time

Ok ok, the surf’s not ‘all time’ but everything else this morning was working quite nicely. Let’s begin with the colour spray sunrise at 6:00am above Ben Buckler. One of its finest. Thin cloud lit up like a bomb fire…then how about the water…it’s 24 degrees and warmer in than out. No wetties required…spend hours […]

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Peaks

Yesterday’s raging swell has subsided considerably overnight leaving 2-3 footers down at Bondi early today. There’s a whiff of an Autumn chill in the morning air, the first time I’d consider wearing anything more than a teo down the beach. Water is still spa bath warm (24?). Few little peaks popping up here and there…nothing […]

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Theory

Right now the charts are calling a 15.5 second period, dead south 188 degree, 6-12 foot swell. Now those digits ‘should’ translate to really good waves – especially seeing its offshore (W). Tragically there are no banks at Bondi…the low tide exacerbates a wave type that is unsurfable – Le Close Out. Hence barely anyone […]

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Wave stalkers

I woke up, looked around, and didn’t find much – anywhere. The full blown onshore is making a mess. That’s ok, cause it’s stirring up a new swell. Just need it to go offshore…soon. I took photos early, but they’re horrible. Here is a collection of waves from Hawaii in mono. These look better. Have […]

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Yesterday

Hi. I like yesterday more. Yesterday was an amazing beach day. Wasn’t meant to be. Forecast was for rain, but it cooked up and the skies stayed clear until the late south change hit whilst we were all sleeping. Today is a grey, rainy junkyard. No one surfing, no one on the beach. A good […]

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Friday Fix

I’m pretty sure today is the worst surf day of this week (on this side of the bridge that is…). The wind was in early, the swell has dropped and not a great deal of sunshine to enjoy. Quite a difference 24 hours can make. Yesterday was a goodie…surfed twice. There’s not much happening all […]

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10/10

After many days of greyness we’re blessed with waves, clean conditions and yep, sunshine. The east swell continues to produce fun waves in the 3 foot vicinity and the crowds are all over it. Go surf. Speaking of sunshine…well, watch/read this…it will make you more aware of the dangers the sun has on our skin. […]

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waves

Mornin’. As forecasted a fresh serve of East swell has arrived into Sydney. She’s a bit wobbly but still fun. Bondi had consistent 3 footers and seemed relatively clean. Finally the persistent onshores have subsided. The water is super warm…don’t really need a wetsuit. Wave Garden You guys gotta see this…it’s called the Wave Garden. […]

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Dribbles

It’s real small and grey today. Bondi only showed a knee to waist high dribble at 6:30am. Looks hopeful for a new supply of east swell that arrives tomorrow (ish). Best hang out until then. Some completely off topic stuff that you should know: Bowl-a-rama is this Saturday. Basically a whole pile of skaters (mostly […]

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Mondayitis

This morning sure ain’t pretty. The waves were onshore, sloppy and 2-3 footish. 1 surfer was sniffing around out the back whilst another dude jogs on the beach – that’s about it. The grey weather has scared off everyone. Had some trouble finding inspiration so I defaulted to my recent Hawaiian gold. Needless to say, […]

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TB @ KB

World ranked no. 3, Taj Burrow was out at K-Bay last night. Quite spectacular to watch what is possible on your home turf. Even when the waves weren’t great, TB was pulling off some of the biggest airs with amazing pace, making it look way too easy. Yesterday’s swell has now dissipated, and at sunrise […]

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Chunk

Hi. Today has started off well, plenty of colour in the sky, warmth in the water and chunk in the bump. If you’re not doing much I’d go for a drive as locally we have limited options with this decent south swell (4ft) – it’s basically closing out at most joints. Especially Bondi, which was […]

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Groundswell

Looks like the charts got it right this week…we’ve got waves, good ones too! It’s about 3-4 foot and coming in from the south. That’s DEAD south (188 degrees if you’re a weather geek). That means basically if you’re not surfing a southern exposed beach it won’t be too consistent – or showing much bump. […]

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Daily Fix

Half decent morning down the hill today. Started off with a nice sunrise surprise and then clean 2 footers in the bay. It’s dropped, quite a lot from yesterday, but only for today, then it kicks back up again tomorrow with a brand new shiny ground swell. A south one – even better cause we […]

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The broken thermostat

Mornin’. Bet you were confused on what to wear today. I’m not talking which key pieces to blend…more about whether to dress for a Sahara crossing or a cold winter’s day in London. We are all still a bit delirious from the inferno lashing received on Saturday here in Sydney. Then how about that southerly […]

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Pipe

The Banzai Pipeline is a very special place. It’s one of the best left handers in the world full stop. I’ve spent a week staying across the sand from it, watching it’s moods change from angry 12 foot monster closeouts to 3-4 foot cute drainpipes. Pipe has some similarities to Bondi…in that there is ALWAYS […]

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B I G

Hawaii is the land of the BIG. Everything is just so oversized here. You’re not a man unless you drive a big pickup (ute) with a V8 6.0 ltr donk. You know, the type you need a step ladder to get into. Then there are the meals. Most of the time you could feed a […]

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Shaka

Hiya. Looks like you’ve got a hot week back home in Bondi. Nothing much under the thirties. Hit the beach and cool off for sure. Over here in Hawaii the swells keep coming. See it’s winter in the northern hemisphere and raging storms in between Alaska and Russia push down a whole pile of solid […]

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