Banzai Pipeline, Hawaii - Fresh new rogue swell just rolled into town

3rd Reef

Aloha. You’d probably gathered from the 1st shot today that I am still in Hawaii. Yes, I will return – just not now. A swell has arrived here in Hawaii. A mammoth rogue beast of a swell. When it gets big here on the North Shore a unique reef system makes the waves break far out, protecting the shoreline (hence, there are houses built right on the sand that haven’t been washed away). 2nd reef has broken a few times whilst I’ve been here this month…but yesterday, wow, 3rd reef was breaking and 5 x overhead waves ripped thru Banzai Pipeline.

The Volcom Pipe Pro started but was called off as it got too big and dangerous. That is something that Hawaiians don’t say too often – TOO BIG. When the comp finished some mental free surfers paddled out to catch some bombs. You really have to be on the shoreline here at Pipe to grasp the amount of water moving here. Let’s say you walked 5 metres into the water – you’d be swept down to Rockies faster than you can run. No one shooting in the water (1st time I’ve seen that) and only 5 guys out at Pipe – that says it all.

Of course the King, Kelly Slater wouldn’t miss a swell and I saw him get out of the water at Pipe – chased by a small pack of hungry women.

The forecast says it’s only going to get bigger. Yes, bigger after a short small spell. Surfline calling 20-25 foot with 30 footers tomorrow and Tuesday. I mean c’mon…

If you’re interested in coming to the North Shore of Hawaii, there is only 1 hotel up here – Turtle Bay. Our buddies at Turtle Bay are giving away a 7 day accommodation package to a lucky Aquabumps reader. Yep. Just go here and enter. Good luck…

Adios :: uge

Sunset paddlers climbing over a set

Yep, Waimea is breaking...

Banzai Pipeline, nice and big and thick...

Even the skis last night were nearly taken out

The King is here, Slater greeted by his fan club after a few waves at Pipe

Slotted...shot in between the crowds

23 thoughts on “3rd Reef

    1. Ke iki out of control and would probably die if I tried to shoot it from the water.

      Waimea shorey is lethal too…watched a group paddle out – timing is essential!

      later:: uge

    1. Hey AJ, 100% no. I rode my bicycle up there yesterday arvo to get the golden light (traffic was horrendous as Pipe Pro was on too). I never, regurgitate content that has been seen before. promise, adios uge

  1. Uge, is there any where the average weekend battler can surf and get a wave without being killed in Hawaii?

    1. Hey Mr. Eggs, yes in deed. I am not pipe charger and am surfing a lot here. So many waves. I will elaborate on that in a future post this week – so stay tuned :: uge

  2. You know what I like most about your work, Uge? You consistently manage to apply a different perspective to the scenes and places that we’ve seen a plethora of images from over countless years, most of which look pretty much the same. You’re unique, and I applaud you for breaking the mould and showing us that things/places/people we think we know can have many different facets. Aloha.

    1. Hey Gav, wow, thanks buddy for your kind words. Makes it all the worth while. To be honest Pipeline has so many photographers I can’t believe it. I am talking 40-50 per day on a good sized day. I just don’t know what all these people do with their images as I never see them anywhere – and I look. Most of them have really big tripods and 600mms…that are way to heavy to move around with so they stand in the same spot, all day. like for 8 hrs. I just can’t do it. I’ve said to myself the past month I will not stand near any other photographer – at all…for any amount of time and shoot. Even in the water – they are all side by side…There are so many new angles here…I’m like a kid in a new candy store – loving it. The best angle of Pipe is from my balcony! Ava good day, uge

      1. Spot on Gav – its a 3 way bet here. The cameraman, the camera, the scene. Its a menage a trois of creativity going on and the Uge is huge.

  3. Awesome shots uge. “Waimea is breaking” image is just …wow. Texture of the water contrasted with the rocks, light and intensity of the wave captured at perfect moment – little foreground distortion = just a very beautiful shot, not your average point and shoot we see in lots surf photography. Stay in Hawaii longer dude, for the good of us all 🙂 respect from South Africa.

  4. Hey Uge,

    Used to live in Oahu. If you get a chance, you should check out Sandy Beach on the south shore. Really fun shorebreak. Id like to see some photos of that.

    “Cookmesomeeggs” – Town (honolulu) gets a different swell direction in Winter: Some really good breaks, but very crowded. Diamond Head, Kaisers, Bowls etc.

    Haliewa is a good wave on the north shore, and much more “moderate” for the average surfer.

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