EOFY

Today it’s all about surfing as the waves are pretty good (but the light not so good). This week’s south swell had dissipated and a new, clean, fresh ENE swell arrived switching on joints like The Bra. It’s around head high on sets, predominantly chest high. Winds are offshore, so it’s lining up nicely. My […]

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Spruce

Sorry about the late transmission. No… I haven’t been surfing all morning, even if the waves are the best they’ve been all week long. Finally the winds have swung offshore and the swells are lining up. Bondi at sunrise was very dark with thick cloud cover and a handful of dudes surfing mostly closeouts mixed […]

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24 karat

It all kicked off today with a gold-plated morning around 7:10am. The clouds broke open for a brief moment and the bay was flooded with 24 karat rays. Quite the spectacle. This time of year the light is clean, crisp and gold – my favourite. The sun rises over the Ben Buckler when in its […]

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Damp

It’s amazing what a difference 24 hours can make. Right now it’s raining and the beach is completely empty. The onshore winds are smashing anything resembling a wave and everyone is off to work. This same SE onshore wind will create swell for the tail end of the week. So be patient, wait for it […]

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Cryogenics

Over the past two weeks, on my tropical sabbatical, I’ve haven’t worn much more than a pair of boardies. I’m back in Bondi now and this morning had to layer up before venturing out of the house… IT IS FREEZING! It’s only 9 degrees as I write this now. Gotta be snow in ‘dem mountains. […]

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Final Voyage

We spent 12 days at sea surfing 12 different surf breaks amongst 3 overlapping swells in the Mentawais. We had 7 surfers on board the 47-foot Tengirri catching on average 40-50 waves each per day, sometimes more. Most days we’d surf 3 times on waves no smaller than 3 foot and no bigger than 8 […]

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Lances

If you ever make your way to this part of the world I am pretty sure you’ll see Lance’s left or right. All boats stop by here for a day or so…kinda like tourist attraction No.1 for the Mentawais. It’s the one of the world’s best rights, machined to perfection offering a high performance tube […]

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Below Blues

Just like every other day on this trip we’ve scored good waves and great weather again…it has been pretty special up here this past week…3 swells in 11 days. Can’t ask for more than that. I just spent the afternoon below the surface with my camera, swimming around looking for interesting things to shoot. This […]

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Air Strike

We cruised the Tengirri back up the island chain for a change of scenery and came across 5 of the hottest young aerialists competing for a cool 50 grand. Yep, 50 gees to pull off the most rad air whilst on their boat trip to the Mentawais. Chippa Wilson, Jon-Jon, Ryan – they were all […]

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