I have to say this hasn’t been my standard trip to Hawaii. The weather has been a little funky. Lots of rain and fickle swells with howling winds. Not like the previous few years. The surf is still special…regardless. Water hasn’t been so clear – hence the lack of underwater shots.
Today we have wind making Pipeline mushy…so all I see now is airs. The level of surfing here is amazing. I’ve been watching John John Florence a lot (he lives a few houses up). He’s 20 years old, just won his first comp for the year and it surfing on another level. He has one of the best back hand tubes in the world (handy on the tour – think Chopes), can do all the tricks in the air with Dane, has powerful rail turns and is glued to his board. World title for sure.
More useless information gathered on the golden mile : Jamie O’Brien grew up in the house that John John lives in now with his Mom. MomJohn. And Kelly Slater lives next door to John John (never see him really – must love computer games). Slats has a tiny Chihuahua dog called ‘Action’. Didn’t pick him for a Chihuahua type of guy. Captain Cook was killed here in a fight with the locals (1779). Hawaii is the most isolated land mass in the world…the nearest mainland some 2,400 miles away. That’s why everything is a little more expensive here…most things have to be imported. Cars are ridiculously cheap here. Half the price of Oz.
Another favourite spot of mine, The Mentawai Islands off Sumatra, is under siege by bombing fishermen. I can’t believe this still goes on. They’re taking avantage of the off season when no one is around and lobbing bombs into the water, decimating the reefs…in order to collect the fish that float to the surface. Madness! Watch this video…if I could show you that beach that they’re doing it on, which is in my top 5 beaches in the world…you’d be so disturbed. Sign the petition please. The Indo officials aren’t doing anything…
Enough ramble, I am pretty sure many of you wouldn’t have made it this far down the page! : : u g e