It’s small here in Hawaii, like Bondi today…but a thumper is on the way tomorrow. That’s exciting. Wish we had all this swell in our summer. Smaller conditions meant I could swim around underwater; early…most people don’t get to the beach before 9am here. Very different to Bondi (keep in mind it is winter here, sunrise is 7:00am)
There is always people surfing, which makes sense as the sport was born here. You can’t distinguish between weekday crowds and weekends. The surf etiquette is high. The cruisy island spirit rubs off into the surf – I’ve seen very little agro – ok, Pipe is an exception – but the rest is fine.
A few of you have emailed me asking if I am ever come home to Bondi Beach. Well, it’s been a month…maybe should start thinking about it.
Seeya : : u g e