Hector Santamaria from Puerto Rico @ Manly this morning

Mantown

Well…well…well. What a day. 26 degrees and aren’t we all just lovin’ it. After being trapped indoors for weeks you are now set free to roam. Not a cloud in the sky and the water is still warm.

I found myself fumbling around Manly this morning. Yes, I crossed the bridge! Manly loves the ENE swell and was looking really good this morning…that is…before the wind screwed it up. I saw some really decent righthanders at North Steyne and one hell of a big crowd.

Put the out of office on, grab a board and a friend…go for a drive. It’s a cracker.

:: uge

Wish we had one of these, a drain pipe. Makes good banks

So that's what the sun looks like, bake it up people.

Hector Santamaria tucking inside, Manly Beach 7:00am

Glider, Manly Beach

Blue crush

Hector about to land one right on my head.

Racey rights, Manly

Manly, presunrise pines

Hector laying down some fine rail brother!

Bank maker 5000, Manly Beach Austalia

Queensie left, Manly Beach

7 thoughts on “Mantown

  1. Uge – You should have jumped over the hill to Freshwater. While the majority of the beach was one big closeout on the bigger sets (‘Straightwater’), the southern corner was offering up some nice little tubes on occasion and Layne B. was putting on a clinic!

  2. Uge,
    Seems strange on the other side of the bridge. Many of your shots seem to be showing handsome backwash waves heading east back out to sea !!
    Always good. Thanks

  3. Dear Uge,

    The backwash is when a wave hits the beach with all the tides and conditions in synch, somehow its energy sends it backwards (ie back out towards from whence it came), clearly much smaller, but when it hits the incoming wave they collide increasing their height, like a tent, lots of spray etc….. I’m sure you had fun as a kid on the body, surfoplane, boogie etc being thrown up into the air !!

    Sometimes, because the beach might be at an angle to the incoming wave, the backwash wave also goes out at the new angle, so that it meets the incoming wave on an angle causing the collision and spray and tenting to occur sequentially along the face of the incoming wave… a photographer’s delight which I am sure with all your experience and surfing kilometres would have seen before. Often in small curved beaches or where movement has created banks etc … I wish I could draw it for you.

    What brought it to my mind, was the optical illusion you have created in 57546,8 & 9 with the buildings in the background (esp 57549) with the wave going away from them (back to see)

    Close rather than fleeting original inspection says its obvious the 46 & 48 buildings are on the point / headland although one could feel they were continuing on around the back of the wave !! And I now see 49 IS the back of the wave with Hector flicking off….

    So I have rearranged the photos in my head and hopefully given you my understanding of backwash albeit there is none in these photos.

    There used be another set of pipes 50-100 yards up the beach. Its where I learned to surf… the Mid-Steyne grommets, wheeling or mals on makeshift billy cart wheels fro Fairlight etc day in day out..

    If you’ve read all this Uge, you will be miss the early sun having taken so long to finish it !!!!

    As I said before, thanks. I am in the Westmead Kids ED and you provide something to long for and dream about each day out here in the west !! Its a bit like the school teacher in the start of the movie “Wake in Fright” which I highly recommend if you’ve not seen it. Again thanks

  4. Hey Archie,
    Thanks for giving Uge a nudge. And for your kind comment of my reply. I’ve never met Uge albeit have the books and the heli view of hot summer thousands on Bondi looking like a sensational Fred Williams etching …
    As I said … love his work ( and would like to do it) …. Further tit bit. Gig, Miller, Anink and I were there between the pipes when Midget did his drop knee, arms up, reverse turn to pip Mike Doyle for the first world title 1963 or was it 62. Whatever it was a cool beach to grow up on.. Bower, bombie and all.
    So thank you too Archie for prompting the memories..
    Fash !!

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