A really fun morning of waves, but enormous crowds trying to get a piece of the action. Crazy. 5 x unpredictable missiles per wave – very scary! I’m glad I made it out of there alive. Some really close shaves.
I spent 90% of my morning swimming against that South Bondi rip, making it hard to connect with surfers shredding. Nonetheless, swimming around at sunrise is one of my favourite things to do. Get out there for a wave before the wind goes a little onshore.
Rips are good for surfing – they make rip bowls!
I need something from you. I realise everyone needs something from everybody – hear me out. We are raising money for the very poor people of Indonesia via our main charity SURFAID. The SURFAID Cup is being held at Manly, Sept 22…and we have an Aquabumps team. So I would LOVE a donation from you…even just a few bucks. Do it for the kids. Please. Donate here