From my bank I can check the surf, that’s important to me when selecting a bank. Yesterday I was punching out some boring admin, banking, walking around with bits of paper etc…and I saw the swell leap from 1 foot to 3 foot, in a matter of minutes. It was biblical; it was beautiful, it was great timing as I have the concentration span of a goldfish when doing admin – out there! After weeks of small surf, finally, a wave that broke over my head (please note: I’m half Chinese, so not massively tall).
Bamboo Benny, of Coastalwatch fame, said we have to be thankful to “Angular spreading off an ESE fetch positioned south of Jervis Bay”. Just what I was thinking. Thanks fetch down south!
This morning we still had remnants of that short swell spike. It was fun, and the banks were throwing out the odd nugget – but – wow – oh boy – it was pure anarchy out there. Foamies going left on rights, heavy burnings…a lawless summer town. Keep your cool and surf with a good attitude.