Yesterday’s long-period south swell (14 seconds!) had us frothing — proper grunt, long lines, and fun peaks. This morning? We’re on the leftovers. It’s shrunk to about a third of the size, and in true long-period fashion, the gaps between sets are big enough to make a coffee, and still paddle back out before the next one rolls in.
There’s one decent left still doing its thing — pretty much the only operational peak on the beach right now — and it’s offering up some tidy little runners if you’re patient and like socializing.
The sun made a brief cameo early, then ducked behind a thick bank of cloud. There’s a 65% chance of rain today. Westerlies are keeping things neat for now, but they’ll swing southerly later, turning things messy.
Tomorrow brings more swell (woohoo) — but don’t get too excited. The winds look like they’ll trash the party. Cloudy, mild days ahead, and temps dropping back into jumper-zone (14–17 degrees for the next few).
:: uge 🌊
