Freddy Carmody definitely took out the heat this morning. Not sure what Emma’s feeding him for brekky, but I’ll have what he’s having. I counted — he was catching a wave every 45 seconds to a minute. One-footers, three-footers, close-outs, fat burgers… Fred was slaying the lot. Full pace. Quite the display — some of the biggest gouges I’ve seen in ages — all on that right, the one now held ransom by the flags (yeah, the best peak on the beach).
The Flags Right is a fickle creature — only lights up on certain tides, but when it does, it throws a lippy, grindable face. There’s a current running south-to-north right now, frustrating the lifeguards as the wolfpack keeps drifting into the swim zone.
Cold start — only 11 degrees at sunrise — so jumpers and trackies were back out. We’re not done with the cold yet. But it’ll be sunny all day, top of 21.
This little south swell will completely capitulate tomorrow, back to knee-cappers by morning.
📦 Overseas gallery customers: a quick reminder — you’ve got just a couple of weeks to get your framed artwork orders in if you want them under the tree in time for Christmas. Don’t leave it too late! Shop
:: uge
P.S. Ed Cunningham was a very close second in the heat.
