How good was it to feel a little push in the ocean last night? I’m pretty sure I snagged one that tipped into overhead — first time in weeks. Even dusted off a board that wasn’t a full-blown groveller. Progress.
There are still a few waves around this morning, but she’s eased back — waist to shoulder high, give or take. The bigger boards drifted out the back, while the shortboard crew took their chances in the punchy little shorey runners.
Sunrise had us on the hook for a minute. Looked like it might explode into colour — teased us with some moody rays — then fizzled out like a campfire kicked over by a rogue splash.
Bit of rain tonight and early tomorrow, then a run of mild temps as we edge further into autumn.
Have a great one,
:: Uge
