Deep Blue
The ocean was very blue this morning. Clarity was good, but the water temp. = exceptional. The waves weren’t so fantastic at Bondi (would be much better at beaches with sandbanks and more east exposure). I didn’t really see anything worth surfing at all even though we had clean calm conditions. Tomorrow arvo the swell […]
Change
We’re on the brink of change as strong winds and swell are predicted. It was 1 foot and cold down the beach this morning. Should be 6 footers tomorrow and howling winds. Log riders were out enjoying a solo peak in the middle. Water is decently warm, but, that dash home in the wind chill […]
Soak
I coulda swam for hours this morning. I know I keep banging on about how nice the water is – but it’s really sumpin special. So warm! In the past few years I’ve been in Hawaii at this time of year…so I guess I’m really enjoying being at home in these choice conditions. Waves – […]
Off the Wall
I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]