South Chump Change
As I write this, a south change is moving from stage right. It’s bringing wind and waves – lots of wind. Tonight expect SSW 30 knots plus. The wave energy will ramp, and tomorrow, you’ll see conditions similar to last Saturday’s 8-footers. It will be very messy with all that wind, but interesting nonetheless. Have […]
Gravy Train
To be honest, it’s been a fantastic week for surfers in Sydney, and we’re only just getting warmed up. From tomorrow there’s a 4-5 day window of solid east-nor-east swell headed our way – thanks to TC Ana and TC Lucas. That should feed all the beaches in our city with something fun to ride. […]
OK?
Today is RUOK day. Are you ok? It’s a day dedicated to reminding people to ask family, friends and colleagues the question, “R U OK?”, in a meaningful way, because connecting regularly and meaningfully is one thing everyone can do to make a difference to anyone who might be struggling. The surf isn’t OK today. […]
Fortune
Bondi had some really fun waves this morning. We’re all loving our new sand banks created from the recent mega swell. Lots of peaks up and down the beach, so many options. It was only head high, but there’s a bit of lip to it…making it rippable. Mum, that translates to ‘Good waves to surf’ […]
Glass
Most nights in Mentawais it glasses off. Pure silk. Best time to surf. The land cools down and the coastal convection relaxes. Last night was pretty special…awesome colours and 4-6 foot waves. We surfed a break in the main part of Mentawais – in the Playgrounds region. I won’t lie – it’s busy. Land camps are […]
Variable
The winds have gone light, and swell magnets are starting to fire. (In Mentawai Islands that is). Mentawais are an archipelago of surf rich islands that hug the south coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. The area is famous for its barrels, as nearly all waves are on shallow coral reefs. People come from all over the globe […]
: : Bad Eye
We’re having a stormy time here in the Mentawais, despite the glassy conditions depicted in today’s imagery. Last night a bad eye hit. 60 knots dragged two anchors and looted the boat. Probably the worst storm I’ve ever seen up here in 17 trips. Reminded me of the Wolf of Wall Street leaving Portofino…except we […]