Outer

HI. Hello. Bom Dia. A very modest morning down at Bondi Beach. Grey skies dominated over clean 1-2 footers. Large Friday crowds scrounged for anything throwing up some lip. It’s not pumping but still warm in. There has been a lot of Kelly Slater sightings around Bondi. Maybe he’s heard about our fantastic waves? Maybe […]

See full post & more photographs

Under

It’s hard to believe that Bondi is only 8 kilometres from a major city and has such clear water (sometimes). Definitely not all the time. This is the same beach that was famous for an untreated sewage outlet which was closed in the mid-1990s. Can you believe that? Well…today Bondi’s got her best duds on…crystal, […]

See full post & more photographs

Quiet

The recent wet scared many from a beach visit this morning. Bondi was all quiet. Finally there are waves to talk about. Really sloppy ones but they broke around head high on the sets. The conditions should clean up during the day and the sunshine will come out. Wednesday looks like fun for surfers. I […]

See full post & more photographs

S O F T I E

Yesterday was a pretty fun day on the North Shore. The onshore Kona winds blew out my enthusiasm to shoot much. A 1.5hr drive across the island to hide from the winds just seemed all too hard. Was feeling lazy…y’know…3 weeks on The Rock can do that. Out front the sand has been doing some […]

See full post & more photographs

Fresh Poke

It’s been really stormy here in Hawaii. I know, I know these pictures depict glorious sunny days. Well…I shot these a few days ago…but it can be stormy on the North Shore and crystal blue and sunny on the East Coast. The island of Oahu can be a little fickle with the weather, especially seeing […]

See full post & more photographs

C A L M

What a good start to the day…the small waves continue and the sunshine is abundant. This will all change tomorrow when rain arrives and a thumpin’ new south swell. Super windy on Saturday afternoon (and big) but next week should be fun when it all calms down. The unstoppable Slater just won Fiji WCT tour […]

See full post & more photographs

O’ahu

I never thought I’d say it but the swell has finally subsided here in Hawaii, well, now in the more manageable 4 foot range. The Kona onshores have been threatening, puffing here and there, making good conditions for airs. I’ve never seen so many aerials. The North Shore is based on the island of O’ahu, […]

See full post & more photographs

Cavernous

It’s been 10 days on nonstop rogue swell here in Hawaii. Pipe has been working most days but last night was a standout session. Waves were 8-10 (These pics probably don’t do the size of the day justice)…and some freaky 2nd reef and 3rd reef wash throughs…which I don’t know how to quantify…but they felt […]

See full post & more photographs

Sleep in…

Feels like we’ve been transported back to the wintery blues after a few steamy summery days. That south change hit yesterday around 10am and has hung around. So windy. Forget surfing. Its dire down there with that wicked combo of onshore and small conditions. Wait until the blow subsides. Whilst you’re bunkering down indoors…the PIPELINE […]

See full post & more photographs