Chalk
I caught up with big wave legend Marky ‘Chalkie’ Matthews this morning. He’s been seriously injured (twice) over the past two years. His nickname ‘Chalk’ is in reference to his brittle bones that often break when you’re surfing 20 foot slabs of death. His last fall was at a nasty south coast slab that drilled […]
S L A N D E R
Weatherwise…it’s been mental. The most volatile I’ve seen. It has been impossible to predict. I think we are in the middle of a big low pressure system and you’ll never know what’s coming. Fortunately this morning we had a few hours of reprieve from the wind…and a select few paddle out at the Cape to […]
Singapore ding-a-ling
I had a small operation last week. Don’t worry… I’ll live. It’s nothing really, just something chopped out of my leg that was looking suss. After the good doctor made his extraction he said “Now you know you’ll have to keep out of the water for 4 days – no exceptions…” After he said that…I […]
Gold
After a disastrous week of surf she turns to gold. Solid 6 foot East ground swell, summery sunshine and favourable winds. The early morning high tide put heaps of wobble in the walls, but now, oh my…she’s clean as a whistle and barrelling on the low. Where?….everywhere. East swell will feed most locations and there […]
Brand New Week
After last week I was getting acclimatised to shooting perfect waves, big gaping wide open monster barrels, sunshine, Kelly, Taj, Mark Matthews etc. Now this morning…shooting empty, grey Bondi just didn’t cut the mustard. Looks like everyone’s filled their wave quota up on last week – no one around…also there’s a tinge of winter claws […]
Heavy
There is a lot to get excited about today. The planets have aligned, the winds gentle and offshore, the sun shining, it’s warm in and out, and this current east swell just keeps on giving. It seems no one is at work today, the beaches are full. East swell is very handy in Sydney, as […]
Friday’s Batch
The remnants of this east swell is hanging in there…just. South Bondi has a great righthand bank but the swell is lacking power as it declines further today. 3 foot sets, 1-2 foot most of the time. SW/SE 5/10 kts, tending SE/NE 10/15 kts during the afternoon, chance of a thunderstorm later as we hit […]