Cronullification
I like Cronulla. It’s a good Aussie beach suburb. I spent a bit of time down in ‘The Shire’ this morning. The people are just so damn nice, every says G’day. Cronulla, a surfing reserve, also hosts some of the best barrelling, slabbing reefs in the country. They’ve got a setup for every condition which is […]
Let’s Dance
Stick your head out the window (if you’re at work). Cracker. 10/10. Super. After a run of storms we’ve finally got a week of perfect Sydney weather. How good is it? What are you going to do about it? There is a ESE swell running with North winds (1-2 foot). You can surf, need volume. […]
Waimea
For a long time I have wanted to swim out to Waimea Bay and shoot photographs. Today I got to tick that bucket list box. OK, it wasn’t 30 foot…it was 15 foot with a few sneaker sets…but it was still a pretty cool thing to do in life. Waimea Bay is the birth place […]
T W I S T E D
I followed big wave legend Mark Mathews down to his little slab this morning hoping there would be something worth shooting. It was ok, super wonky but still big and chunky. Some waves were doing it, but they needed a tow to get down them. Tomorrow should be fun when the sun comes back out. […]
Flab Slab
There is plenty of swell today. Bondi was breaking around 6 foot earlier this morning – not looking too pretty as the banks struggle to hold such size. We just don’t have any reefs around here that can take such force. I went for a drive to a Sydney slab thinking it might just switch […]
Reef Nuggets
Typically Autumn is connected to our best time of year to surf. Ok, so she’s having a slow start but there’s pockets of fun on the right tides and winds. This morning I swam out to a creepy reef which wasn’t cranking due to some wrong angles and stuff, but some nice thick empties rolling […]
Lances
If you ever make your way to this part of the world I am pretty sure you’ll see Lance’s left or right. All boats stop by here for a day or so…kinda like tourist attraction No.1 for the Mentawais. It’s the one of the world’s best rights, machined to perfection offering a high performance tube […]
Air Strike
We cruised the Tengirri back up the island chain for a change of scenery and came across 5 of the hottest young aerialists competing for a cool 50 grand. Yep, 50 gees to pull off the most rad air whilst on their boat trip to the Mentawais. Chippa Wilson, Jon-Jon, Ryan – they were all […]
Black Hawk down
My mate Paulie and I had this great plan to document the Mentawai Islands from the air. We’ve spent about a year working on this idea, even acquired a remote controlled Octocopter that is large enough to carry one of my pro digi cameras and dragged all the gear up here into remote Indonesia. The […]
Telescopes
We’ve been pretty lucky up here so far. Couldn’t ask for better weather and waves (sorry, I heard it’s pretty ugly back home). The surf has been consistently above head high every day, sometimes bigger and the winds are favourable meaning plenty of options. Today we’re anchored near Tuapajet, the capital of the Mentawai Islands […]
Cronulla
Welcome to the Cronulla…Australia’s fifth National Surfing Reserve. The land of heavy reef breaks, no parking meters and hometown for many surf talents like world champion Mark Occhilupo, Matt Griggs, Kingy, Mick Marjanovic, Terapi and master lens man Jon Frank. Good setup down here, so many surfing options. Today we’ve got a decent East swell […]
Light on
There wasn’t not much for me to work with down the beach this morning at Bondi. When I got there the sunrise glow was finishing and the clouds thickening. The waves are a flimsy wind chop -1 /2 foot and best suited to the learner variety. It was kinda dark too, but here are a […]
Last Day
Our little junket in the Mentawai’s has come to a close as we set sail for mainland Indonesia. Plenty of waves in the first half of the trip, bit light on in the second – except today where it came up to 4-5 foot on a hollow left. The winds up here have been a […]