Pulau
The indigenous inhabitants of this region – the Mentawai people – are known for their intricate tattoo art. Tattooing holds immense cultural significance for the Mentawai people, representing various aspects of their identity, such as age, social status, postcode and spiritual beliefs. They live in harmony with the lush rainforests of each island – mainly […]
Bon Voyage
As our trip comes close to an end, we make our way back to the central part of the island chain, where crossing overnight to Padang is easier. There are endless breaks along the way, so we drop anchor at many, hopefully timing it with the right tides, winds and crowds. It’s been days of […]
Heading Home…
After surfing 26 surf breaks in 12 days we’re now heading home. We’re done. Cooked. Spaghetti arms. I haven’t worn shoes or touched dry land since May. And barely any mobile reception – it feels good to get off the grid. Today I’ve switched on my computer and have dozens of messages saying they wanna holiday […]
Mixed Tape
Another crazy onshore unsurfable day at Bondi Beach. Swell has picked up but it’s been blown to bits. Warning: this email’s content may make you want to jump on a plane tonight and travel. Over’n’out :: uge
S M O T H E R
Hope you all had a good sleep in. You missed absolutely nothing down the beach this morning. It’s the pits. A 30 knot onshore smothered any goodness…only saw a learner class in the North of Bondi…that’s about it…maybe crank the work. Keramas is pumping for the world tour stop No.5…I just wish the generator would […]
A B A N D O N E D
There were waves this morning but no one seems interested in them. I struggled to find anyone surfing. Maybe this good run of swell has worn you all out? Maybe the cold weather and rainy clouds have scared everyone off. Maybe a secret spot is pumping and 100 out. Maybe it’s Monday and everyone has […]
Flab Slab
There is plenty of swell today. Bondi was breaking around 6 foot earlier this morning – not looking too pretty as the banks struggle to hold such size. We just don’t have any reefs around here that can take such force. I went for a drive to a Sydney slab thinking it might just switch […]
Damp
It’s amazing what a difference 24 hours can make. Right now it’s raining and the beach is completely empty. The onshore winds are smashing anything resembling a wave and everyone is off to work. This same SE onshore wind will create swell for the tail end of the week. So be patient, wait for it […]
Mals only
The past two days have been small, this morning is micro. Group of mal riders in the middle enjoying a 1 foot peak and shallow bank. Such a nice morning nonetheless…a real treat to be swimming around as the sun came up behind Benny Buckler. Tengirri If you want to go to the Mentawais and […]
Light on
There wasn’t not much for me to work with down the beach this morning at Bondi. When I got there the sunrise glow was finishing and the clouds thickening. The waves are a flimsy wind chop -1 /2 foot and best suited to the learner variety. It was kinda dark too, but here are a […]
The Indian blue
There’s not much between the Mentawai Islands and the bottom of this planet – just a massive expanse of Indian Ocean between Australia and Africa. This absence of land mass keeps the surf rich waters around these islands crispy blue clear…perfect for a day’s swimming around with your camera. The surf has been good – […]
Straight
Another morning of good conditions down at Bondi – and don’t you all know it. Quite a few more crew out for the early on the whiff of a 3 foot set. Winds were a optimal NW early, but will swing more southerly as the day progresses (up to 20 knots). Looks like there will […]
fruity monday
After a successful weekend of south swell it’s tapered off somewhat this morning. Halved me thinks. Bondi had a 2-3 foot wave, little wonky but mostly fun as not many people were out (brr). The rain has now set in after threatening rain clouds circled the bay all morning. The great news is that we’ve […]