:: Ments
Most surfers have the Mentawais on their hit list. It’s just one of those magical places on earth. There’s 70 islands in the Mentawais hanging 150kms off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. Why is it so good? The waves are incredible here (consistently). There is just so many different reefs to surf and being on […]
Empty
Right now the beach is all calm and chilled. A small pulse at sunrise had some fun ones, but now it’s back to a dribbly 1 foot. After a cloudy start the sun is out now and putting on some warmth. Really nice day. REALLY nice day. SURFAID is in partnership with Spotify. It’s called […]
Lay Day
It can’t pump every day…after nearly a week up here the waves have turned off. A good time to let the reef cuts heal. Swell is coming though…and should hit later today. She’s gonna be a big one. But for now it’s messing around on the boat and DVDs. Here’s some odd bits and bobs […]
A B A N D O N E D
There were waves this morning but no one seems interested in them. I struggled to find anyone surfing. Maybe this good run of swell has worn you all out? Maybe the cold weather and rainy clouds have scared everyone off. Maybe a secret spot is pumping and 100 out. Maybe it’s Monday and everyone has […]
C R E A S E D
This south swell seems to be having trouble sorting itself out. It needs a good strong offshore to iron out all creases. Waves are breaking in the 4 foot plus range this morning at Bondi but they were wobbly and random. Very few guys surfing. Bronte had a little something on offer – but it’s […]
Let’s Get High
There’s no better day to get high together. Classic Bondi today – 28 degrees, little wind and the magic water temperature of 22 degrees. Shame the surf is barely breaking above your knee caps. An early flight and here’s what Bondi looks like when its waking up, from above. My mate Rupert Murdoch reckons the […]
Remote
Another week and we’re still on the boat in Indonesia. This time we’ve gone to a really remote part of the islands, an area that I’ve never been before. The conditions have to be right before committing to motoring down here – its bit of a drive – but we’ve scored it good, real good. […]
Black Hawk down
My mate Paulie and I had this great plan to document the Mentawai Islands from the air. We’ve spent about a year working on this idea, even acquired a remote controlled Octocopter that is large enough to carry one of my pro digi cameras and dragged all the gear up here into remote Indonesia. The […]
Punters
We have moved to a part of the Islands called Lances. The swell is still tiny but there are some fun waves around exposed breaks nearby. We still haven’t seen the real perfection that these islands are famous for. Lances area was badly hit by the Tsunami last year – the Bintang village has now […]
Fizzer
I’ve written the start to this daily email 3 times and don’t really have anything amazing to say. It’s well, um, 1-2 foot and junkie out there. The good news is that at 6:20am there wasn’t a soul out on the main peak. I’m torkin’ not one human – not even a beginner drifting down […]
New Faces
A superb morning and so many new faces out. Where have you been all winter? Sun was shining, the northerlies blowing, the bootie camps were choccas, the car park full and the waves….the waves were just not happening. There was a little piece of wind chop for the very motivated individuals, but I’d pass. In […]
POD
C’mon, you didn’t think I was going to make a film every day did ya? Thanks for all your feedback. Learnt a lot yesterday and will work on the vids. I’ve been saying this a lot lately, but what a nice morning, sunshine and 3 footers. A huge pod of dolphins rammed the bay catching […]