Go Slow

Aloha kako! Today’s Aquabumps update has been inspired by the SLOOOOW pace of the North Shore of Hawaii (where I currently reside). Everybody’s got plenty of time here…especially when the swell is pumping. It’s very relaxed and in the spirit of Aloha. At 4pm every day the distinct aroma of weed wafts down the golden […]

See full post & more photographs

O’ahu

I never thought I’d say it but the swell has finally subsided here in Hawaii, well, now in the more manageable 4 foot range. The Kona onshores have been threatening, puffing here and there, making good conditions for airs. I’ve never seen so many aerials. The North Shore is based on the island of O’ahu, […]

See full post & more photographs

Confessions

“There’s chicks out there. And they’re in bikini’s”. This is Uge’s attempt to build my confidence to take the SUP out in front of our place nestled between Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach. If you’ve seen his pics from the last few days on Oahu’s North Shore you’ll understand my trepidation. What Uge neglects to […]

See full post & more photographs

Cavernous

It’s been 10 days on nonstop rogue swell here in Hawaii. Pipe has been working most days but last night was a standout session. Waves were 8-10 (These pics probably don’t do the size of the day justice)…and some freaky 2nd reef and 3rd reef wash throughs…which I don’t know how to quantify…but they felt […]

See full post & more photographs

North Shore

Alooooha! Sorry about the radio silence. Just been taking it easy here in Hawaii. Y’know…bit of holidays, bit of shooting. The swell has been ridiculously big the past week. Haven’t seen a day less than 6 foot. Today it came up again and there are faces at Pipeline that are over 30 foot! The swell […]

See full post & more photographs

Pipe

It’s going to be a hot one back home in Sydney…not so hot here in Hawaii but definitely better waves! Pipeline was working this morning with clear skies and little wind. The usual masses were out, more sponsored surfers than a WCT event. It’s gotta be the most photographed wave in the world. Was 6-8 […]

See full post & more photographs

Flux

I woke up this morning and could hear the ocean rumbling out front. First thing I saw was a dude rolling into a large set at Pipe…clean as a whistle…immaculate…he made it out after being wrapped in water (and lots of it). Today is gonna be a good day I was thinking. After shooting a […]

See full post & more photographs

Back on the Rock

Welcome back to Hawaii…it’s been a year since I was on The Rock and we’ve missed the joint. Upon arrival its been 4-6 foot and the locals dismissed it as a day for the kiddies. I must be a kiddie. There is a MONSTER swell arriving this Friday. Surfline has numbers like 23 seconds/42 feet […]

See full post & more photographs

Porkys

Today the tide was in early and porking up anything moving out there. Knee to chest high waves were fat as… Nice day, 27 degrees and a typical summer north wind pattern. Hit the beach. The Pipeline Masters is on hold today, but the swell and tension is building. This is a big one. Parko […]

See full post & more photographs

Mung

Today is another gloomy day down the beach. The wind is still howling and the ocean is a mess. Enough said. All you need to know about today is that the wind will start to drop tonight. Yesterday was an exciting day at the Pipeline Masters in Hawaii. It’s down to Parko and Slater for […]

See full post & more photographs

sayonara

Today’s first pic above sums up Hawaii for me. A nice crispy clean wide open barrel, warm water, tropical palm trees, huge mountains in the back ground, beautiful light…ah yes, there is nothing better than Hawaii. The only thing missing is the huge wolf pack at Pipe fighting for a set. This is a freak […]

See full post & more photographs

Maxed

Aloha…last night at 10pm it was 2 foot. Yep. Dos. The calm before the rogue storm. By midnight you could hear sets crumbling out the back. By sunrise it was 4-6 foot with 8 foot sets. At this point I took some photos…the Pipe Pro was called off as the forecast was showing an even […]

See full post & more photographs

3rd Reef

Aloha. You’d probably gathered from the 1st shot today that I am still in Hawaii. Yes, I will return – just not now. A swell has arrived here in Hawaii. A mammoth rogue beast of a swell. When it gets big here on the North Shore a unique reef system makes the waves break far […]

See full post & more photographs