Lagoon
Lagoons form around islands like Moorea as the volcanic landmass subsides into the ocean (over millions of years), leaving a coral outer ring – hence creating beautiful lagoons. It’s a slow but very fruitful process. The lagoons are full of marine life and sheltered from the pumping swells on the outer reefs. Moorea gets a […]
Teahupoo
When you mention the word ‘Teahupoo’ it puts fear into the minds of every surfer. It is the heaviest wave in the world full stop. You’ve all seen the photos of death slabs draining off the shallow reef. It’s your worst nightmare or a heavenly utopia to a rare few. The name ‘Teahupo’o’ loosely translates to […]
Salty
Not the best morning for taking photographs. The rain seemed to follow me and my lenses around. Nice left in the corner though – albeit much smaller than previous days. The left had a little consistent bowl, good if you’re a really small human. Oh yeah, real cold out there too! I saw a few […]
FAT
Full as a boot out there today. 1.8 metres of fat at 7am high tide. Swell has hung in there with waves breaking 3-4 foot, but they’re all porked up. I would wait for the low tide. Slight onshore winds now, currently Easterly, but later 5-10 knots of North Easterly forecasted. Don’t expect much on […]