Yeah nah?
To go or not to go? Whilst the surf has tapered off, the winds are not blowing and there’s a clean head high wave on offer. With morning higher tides it definitely got some wonk on it. Surf now or on the lower tides? Will the wind come in? Dunno. I do know there’s a larger, […]
Too Low
LOW TIDE 4:47 AM (0.5m), not ‘nuf water for surfers this morning. Shame…’cause conditions were excellent. Yesterday was a cracker. It was the sort of day we could replay over and over and not be bored. Today is similar; only the swell has dropped out. A windy southerly is about to hit, possibly bringing rain […]
Gentleman’s Hours
The beach is a different place after 9 am. The crowds thin after the 333 drops everyone into the city. Out come the die-hard locals who enjoy a bit of space and fewer drop-ins. Today we’ve finally got some waves to shoot – head high on sets and looking decent. The winds are kicking around […]
I’m back…
I’ve returned from my little fling with the Indonesian islands. I can still feel the motion of the boat whilst standing firmly on dry land. Had a blast over there, not too shabby around here either. 2-3 footers, perfect sunshine, offshores and barely anyone down the beach this morning. Bingo. Good times. Get out there. My […]
My Mission
I take photos every day. That’s been my calling in life for some time now. Some days are more photogenic than others. Some days I’ve got the trigger finger on flat biccie – like Tony Montana in the final scenes of Scarface. Sometimes I labor over the shots…trying all kinds of fancy dance work to […]
Sempurna
Hello. It’s me. Uge. I’ve wrestled my website back from Derek. We are still at sea and have found what we are looking for. Sempurna (Indonesian for perfection). Yes, it’s pumping. Proper. Not a drop out of place. 4-6 foot barrels on a clear, sunny day. Hard to believe that there was only a few […]
Pagai Gold
It’s been pretty damn-amazing in Indonesia lately. The swells have been consistent and the winds variable. These ideal conditions spread the boats throughout the archipelago and it’s easy to be surfing on your own. The other day I surfed 7 hours in 1 day. Haven’t done that in an ages, but when’s she’s pumping you’ve […]
Paradise Found
Its official, we’ve found paradise. Don’t ask me where exactly as we travel through the night waking up at a different surf break each day. Today we surfaced at a neat little empty left (no name) on the point of a coconut lined bay. It’s pristine – untouched by humans. The beaches have no evidence […]
Shorey Glory
It’s small. Mainly just a shorey slappin’ on the beach. So small even Jono (AKA the mad professor) was soft sand jogging and not surfing. Now that’s small – that man can sniff a 1ft set out of Lake Bondi any day. Mighty fine morning though, after the early clouds dissipated we’re left with clear […]
5Dee
The ocean was confused this morning. Last nights Nor-East blast put heaps of bump into the chunk. Looks like it’s also dropped a couple of feet…but there’s still a few rideable bumps wobbling into the corner (2-3 foot). After an early morning thunderstorm and shower its back to summer bakin’ paradise. (max 29 degrees). Good […]