I thought I’d never say it, but I am surfed out…
The waves in Hawaii have been consistently above head high for weeks now – I’ve filled my quota.
Today was small(ish) so I decided to go beneath the surface for a look around. This is what I found.
The Volcom Pipe Pro waiting period starts today. Day 1 is a Layday. Looks like some swell coming in 2 days time (Wed here, Thurs in Oz). Kelly Slater has rocked up…not sure if he’s surfing in it, but I bet if the waves turn on – yes, he will be out there just to get Pipe without the crowds.
Adios :: u g e
PS – got an ear infection – so no water shots for a few days…torture!
Bula. No waves here in Fiji today. Pretty much flat and a bit of wind (should be right for the kites later). To keep everyone away from the bar we’ve distracted them with underwater activities and a few photos sessions.
Waves will be back tomorrow so it’s a good opportunity to let the sunburn settle and do something else. Hope you’re getting waves back in Bondi – heard it’s been hot.
Fri 25th Sept 6pm at Gertrude and Alice on Hall Street Bondi, Jamail Yogis, the author of Saltwater Buddha, A Surfers Quest to find Zen on the Sea, will be talking about his journey – free event – just rock up.
Aquabumps is going to be broadcast from the little island of Namotu this week (that’s Fiji). It’s heaven over here.
The colours of this place are insane. Clearest blue water in the world I’d say. Sometimes I’d be shooting something (like the boat shot) and even I can’t believe the fluoro hues that are flash up on my camera back.
Not many surfing shots today – even though it’s been 3 foot for the first couple of days – I’m having a break from chasing board riders and actually gettin’ a few for myself.
Not a great deal going on today apart from this glorious weather. (max 19)
Waves at Bondi were half a foot to a foot. There should be a slight swell increase as the day progresses, but nothing too substantial. Friday is the big day this week.
Today’s Aquabumps is still coming from a little town where there are only 20 permanent residents (quiet) – somewhere on the NSW coastline.
A fella called Marcus booked a trip to Maldives and has recently busted his foot. He’s trying to offload the trip a cheap rate. Trip dates 9-21 August 2009. Contact Marcus | Trip Info
It doesn’t happen often…but today the Mentawais have gone all quiet. After a few days of hollow bliss it is time to rest and watch a whole season of Underbelly. Not much else to do in a 20 square metre cabin with 6 surfers.
Swell charts show a small pulse arriving tomorrow…and we’re at the biggest swell magnet break waiting for it. Back to the DVDs. Have a great day :: uge
Salubrious weather at the moment (big word for Monday I know). Its winter, but we’re pretending its midsummer – especially up the North Coast of NSW where the water is warmer and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. The waves could be better, swell seems to be hitting Sydney cleaner than up here…. we’ve currently got 2-3 foot wobbly south swell (note: no surfers in these shots – as I can’t find any). The forecast is for improved swell energy later today…and these NW winds are grooming the SSE swell so I’m hoping it will line up better. Tomorrow and Wednesday look like great surf days down at Bondi.
Have a great week :: uge
PS – next week Aquabumps will be broadcast from the sensational Maldives.