Friday, June 29, 2007

crossoverswells How good has the past few days been? Just ridiculous. So as the smokin’ ESE swell of the past 3 days declined overnight, a new south swell starts pumpin’ into town. The ocean looked confused this morning as the two swells from different origins wobbled their way into our bays. It’s still around 6 foot solid, but with heaps of wonk. The howling westerly offshore seemed to put off many early risers as not one seems to be out. The wind will back off this afternoon, and the swell will consolidate into a nice swell – dead south. Summary – this afternoon will be fun. Doit. Doit.

High tide 7:20am, low tide 12:50pm. Water temperature 19 degrees, land max 17 degrees. Have a great weekend. The weather should be clearing for the weekend – 3-4 foto at south facing magnets with straight offshore – good one to get outta town as you’ll score. Don’t forget the Aquabumps Gallery is open all weekend 10am to 4pm. End of financial year tomorrow, so maybe a few prints for the office reception wouldn’t go a stray. ::uge

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Thursday, June 28, 2007

peakin’Like my friend Nicky always says about her husband Jamie…"it peaked early". The predicted monster swell for today actually arrived a day early. Yesterday afternoon lit up as Sydney was bombarded with a huge ESE swell. I saw waves on sundown around the 10-12 foot solid mark. Only a handful of surfers braving the large unpredictable conditions. Today it’s much smaller. Like half the size. Bondi had 6-8 foot sets and it’s still howling offshore making it quite hard to paddle onto them. That said it’s a top surf day. So many places would be working so it wouldn’t be hard to find an uncrowded wave. Most lineups are empty. Water is pretty damn cold and that offshore breeze has chilly claws that dig deep.
softOn the 26th May was the Soft-on – the search for the master Foamie rider down at North Bondi. A whole lotta characters came out of the woodwork to compete in this soft event. Softest Overall – Spiderman aka Justin, Softest Slide – Perth Standlick, Softest Style – Damion Fuller, Softest Style – Damion. Linda Benson and Viocorp have a created video covering the event. watch video
snowyGlobal Surf Industries presents the 2007 Snowy McAllister Winter Longboard Competition to be held this weekend in Manly. 186 surfers will compete in 9 Divisions over Saturday and Sunday. This is the 20th year this event has been run in honour of Manly Local Waterman. In 1926, C.J. "Snowy" McAllister who emerged as Australia’s first great surfer, winning the men’s surfing championship that year and the year following. Heats start 7:00am Saturday and the finals start 1:00pm Sunday. There is a charity and social event planned for Saturday night at Manly’s Steyne Hotel where Legendary Bob McTavish will MC a fun night’s entertainment.
For more details go to www.mmbc.info / www.surfindustries.com or call President / Contest Director – Lynden Riley Mob #: 0411 566 223 or Vice President Tim Browne Mob # 0413 227 168 or Principal Sponsor Mark Kelly 0403 045 159

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Wednesday, June 27, 2007

XXXL.June is big season. Write it down. Only been back from Mentawai 6 days and have witnessed 2 of the biggest swells of the year. At 6:40am I peeped through the blinds expecting a swell increase…and wow, we got one. Saw a monster 8 foot set peeling across the bay bathed in beautiful morning light. Game on. Too much water moving around to surf most breaks, but spectacular to watch.
Took me 1.5 hrs to drive 1km to work today. Every corner I turned I saw a frothing massive lip plume fanning in the strong offshore. Monsters breaking in places that I haven’t seen before. Took 300 photos this morning…will leak them out over the new few days.
One lone wolf tried to paddle out at South Bondi, but he didn’t get close to the lineup being bashed by white water. Few crew at North Bondi surfing a manky deformed thing, but that won’t fry your burger. Manly would probably be the go. Something with a bit of protection. So it’s big and offshore…I’d suggest sampling a few. Tomorrow looks even bigger and offshore. In fact the next three days have waves and offshore winds – yep just like Christmas. Enjoy::uge

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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

skankshank
It’s been big huh. The beefy south swell of the past few days has subsided this morning as a strange NE wind butchers. Bondi has some rideable 2-3 footers in the southern corner, but they looked really fat and a skanky black sludge was seeping into the line up from all the rain water run off. Eww. You may return from a surf with fluoro hair and whiter teeth. Best be patient as there is something rumbling out there. Waves will increase in size later today as a new swell approaches. Winds will swing from north to offshore south (SW). And wait, it gets better, there will be waves all week with the swell peaking on Thursday morning. One of my charts is saying it’s going to be really big Thursday. But let’s see what happens tomorrow. Some pics in today’s report from the weekend’s joy.

paradisebeach
A week ago we found probably one of the most perfect beaches I’ve ever seen. I’ve seen a few too. It was on a little island in Mentawai (Indonesia). Accessible by boat or seaplane, palm trees lined the beach, the sand – perfect, not a scrap of rubbish and water just ridiculously blue. Anyway, thought I post a pic of this paradise beach on a rainy day like today. Hell even download yourself a wallpaper or just book a holiday.
june30
Seeing its end of the financial year in a few days, why not splurge out and buy a few framed prints from the Aquabumps Gallery for work. That office foyer can always do with a bit of a spruce up. Now ya torkin. See some gold and contact us for the latest pricelist.
Later::uge

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Friday, June 22, 2007

stormsSo what’s been happening since my Mentawai disappearance kids? "Storms" seems to be the common thread in everyone’s convo. Big storms. Like 30 year storms. Big tankers wrecked in Newy, big swells, sand pushed onto roads blah blah. But dang it’s cold back here. Freezing today. Haven’t worn shoes let alone much clothing for two weeks…this morning had to wear 4 layers to keep the claws of winter off this lil’ punk.
Good dose of the solid stuff hittin’ town at the mo. Origin is south, but its junkie as hell if you ask me. Two lone wolves battling southern corner sets at 6-8 foot – they’re there…surf em if you’re keen. Maybe somewhere like Manly would be more in control. Winds are favourable offshore (SW) blowing massive lip plumes in the bay (making for good snapage).
Waves all weekend. Pray this rogue swell settles overnight. Sunday looks Mac Daddy with massive 10 foot chunks forecasted. Dust off those big guns hellmen.
Have a great weekend. The Aquabumps Gallery is open 10am to 4pm all weekend. 98 Brighton Boulevard, North Bondi. (Tucked behind the North Bondi RSL). Come see. ::Oggie (Dutch version of Uge)

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Tuesday, June 19 2007

Statistics.12 days, 6 surfers, 400 nautical miles traveled, 20 cartons of Bintangs drank (mostly by Damo), 85 kit kats, 40 Tim Tams, burning 4000 litres of diesel, 15 breaks surfed, 0 Broken boards, 1 spilt open head, the captain smoked 3 cartons of ciggies (and he’s on a health kick he reckons), 6 ipods, 6 games of scrabble, consistent 33 degree days, average wave size 3 – 4 foot, biggest day 6 – 8 foot Thunders, best day 6 foot Maccas, most barrels 4 – 6 HT’s.
So today concludes our little Mentawai sojourn from this 47 foot powercat Tengirri. Special thanks to the Tengirri boat crew & Telstra for generously sponsoring a satellite internet connection making these reports from such a remote part of the globe possible. Also special thanks to Mad Dog for uploading to the site from Sydney. If you’d like to do a trip like this one, there are still spare spots available in late season 2007. Just contact Anthony Kiem on 0434 249 834 www.tengirri.com Otherwise they’re currently taking bookings for 2008. The Tengirri boat is one of the best operators up here. It’s the fastest and has the best little Indonesian nakal cook, Donald who can make a "Long Grain" style meal in a 1 square metre kitchen.
See you back in Bondi::uge

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Monday, June 18 2007

tidur.I woke to our Indonesian deckhand ‘Indurah’ calling ‘Ombak tidur’ (the waves are sleeping). Yep he nailed it. They’re definitely sleeping. After a week of smokin’ waves it’s backed off…making for an opportune time to go through 50 gig of hot shots and give the body a chance to repair its aches and pains. We saw a little dribble of 2 foot, but nothing to get excited about especially with the 6-8 foot gold we’ve been enjoying for the last few days…here are the pics…
All the boat staff up here have been talking about how good it’s been over the past 2 months. Some say it’s to make up for last year’s disastrous season with persistent nemesis onshore winds. 3 weeks ago they scored the best Mentawais in 20 years. From the video footage and pics I’ve seen it was just ridiculous.
Back soon. ::uge

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Friday, June 15 2007

I like pasta.Any joint named after tubular shaped pasta has got to be worth surfing. Especially when you get it on its day. Today’s it’s smoking up here in Mentawai Islands (Indonesia). The forecasted swell arrived with all it’s grunt. Up here a good swell is 17 second period at 10 – 14 foot (summary – that’s good and rare back home). The swells grind along the west coast of oz, refining, before unleashing on the island chains of Indonesia. Today’s I saw some of the best tubes ever. It was mechanical. One after another they broke from sunrise to sunset piping along a shallow, sharp reef. Let’s hope we’re on again tomorrow.
Have a great weekend. Remember the Aquabumps Gallery is still open all weekend (even though I am up here). 10am to 4pm both Saturday and Sunday. 98 Brighton Boulevard, North Bondi. Just tucked in behind the North Bondi RSL.
Luego, :: Uge

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Thursday, June 14, 2007

Day 5 on the boatOpen any surf mag and you’ll find a photo of a guy in a barrel taken from the water. Yeah that old chestnut. I gotta say, never really tire of looking at barrel shots. Like this photo above. A young Frenchie slotted well deep in a Thunders pit at sunset. All his mates hooting from the channel… "oui..oui"…its a good way to finish off a day…
So the waves are still on up here. 4-6 foot at sunset and looking to increase for tomorrow. Let’s hope the winds are favourable. Have a great day, uge
PS – the skipper just told me that there was a 11 foot salt water croc in the water up here the other day. Makes it interesting shooting in the water…

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Wednesday, 13th June, 2007

Island paradiseThere’s a whopping 17,508 islands in Indonesia. 245.5 million people call this place home. Out here in the Mentawai Archipelago you barely see a single sole on these small palm lined islands. It’s like another world…where dug out canoes are still the most popular form of transport.
The waves are consistently good up here. Even when the swell is small you can find an easy 3-4 foot pipe on a sharp tropical reef. Most breaks have a ‘greedy’ spot…like today’s tubular right at low tide…should you take your wave too far there is a price to be paid. Just ask Damo…
Our charts say a large swell is arriving today…yeha. end transmission::uge

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Tuesday, June 12th, 2007

back again.Greetings from the Mentawai Islands, Indonesia, some 90 nautical miles south of Sumatra. I know what you’re all thinking "what…again?" yep…again. No folks. I don’t have any illegitimate Indonesia kids running around up here. I just couldn’t help myself when I got wind of a few available spots on the MV Tengirri power cat. To kick this tour off we’ve had great waves (standard). Mostly around 4-6 foot everyday, perfect 33 degrees of sunshine and that clear-clear water that I chase everywhere. Heaven.
Up here they’re still telling stories of the last monster swell 3 weeks ago. Some calling it the best it’s been in 20 years. Our Skipper saw reefs fire up that are normally subdued. The last time we looked at the swell charts we had something solid towards the end of this week. Some fun to be had and hopefully some good pics.
Legendary Jim Banks, one of the original Aussie explorers who found many breaks in Indonesia is up here showing us he’s still got what it takes to pull into a HT’s intimidating pipe. (note:He’s a good ole Aquabumps subscriber as well)
To put things in perspective, these reports are broadcast from the fly bridge of a charter boat via satellite. Thanks to our best buddies at TELSTRA, I can hook up to the internet via Satellite pretty much anywhere on the globe (wireless networks aren’t common up here…there still working on the electricity thing). Uploading can sometimes take up to 30 minutes to push 200kb worth of pics to outta space, then back down to Texas, then pinged back to Sydney to be spat over the globe (thanks Mad dog). So enjoy the pics from this tropical paradise. Junpa lagi::uge

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Wednesday, June 06, 2007

beefcakesSometimes a good pounding solves everything. It’s kinda cleansing been put through the washing machine after a decent 5 foot set breaking on your head.
We’ve got waves this morning. Bigger than expected. 5 foot with odd bomb 6 foot set. Currently offshore it’s not a bad time to paddle out seeing the SE onshore is far away. Oh one thing – it is straight as. Get one that’ll hold up and you’ve got the lucky ticket…go to shore and reminisce for the rest of the day. Maximum of 18 degrees today. Tomorrow will be bigger again – but lots-a-onshores coming. Good news is there will be waves for the long weekend but its gonna be a wet one. So rethink the camping option. Later, ::Uge

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Tuesday, June 05, 2007

change.<delayed transmission 11am>There’s more pump in the chunk this morning. Sets are easily 3 foot at Bondi. But the onshores have begun to mess it up a little. It’s onshore for most of this week. But hey, look on the bright side, the longer the wind blows, the better the swell when the wind backs off. Sit tight.
Looks like a week of clouds and rain also. Well…that good run of superb weather just had to stop somewhere. Min 10 degrees, Max 18 degrees, S/SW 8/13 kts tending S/SE 8/13 kts in the afternoon. Local upcoming women’s shredder, Jessi Miley-Dyer was out today ripping up the high tide close-outs down at Bondi. She’s doing well currently ranked 12th in the world’s womens CT tour.
Later, uge

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Monday, June 04, 2007

Everything just looked a little vanilla today in the surf department. Especially in the shadows of the weekends solid four to six feet of joy. It’s dropped. Considerably. And lacking the punch required to give you a decent push. Swell is coming from the SE but only managing to touch the two foot bracket with 3 foot half hour sets.
Dang it’s cold. To the bone stuff. Had four layers whilst shooting dis morning. That sunrise offshore bites…
Good news though kids (kinda). 5 days away is a strong South East swell. Currently flanked by wintery strong onshores, it will be solid from Friday to Sunday. Probably will get into Manly and be out of the wind.
Gotta run. uge

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Friday, June 01, 2007

1st day of winter Of course today you’d be tempted to look out the window of that office and go…might just sneak off into this perfect weather and see whatssup down the beach. Well a hint of a south swell greeted us this morning. South facing Bondi was picking up every inch of it. Pity most closed out as it broke 1 to 2 foot. Check it this afternoon and I guess you’ll see a different story – maybe even cracking the 3 foot mark as the swell radar detects inbound boogies. Tomorrow you should see 3-4 footers – and guess what, they hang around for 5 days! So. Some fun ahead. Best and biggest Sunday morning. Maybe rethink those tequlia shots at 3am in the cross on Saturday night.
High tide 8:30am. Low tide 1:50pm. Water 20. Winds: W/SW 10/15 kts tending SW/S 5/10 kts later in day. Have a great weekend. Be sure to drop by the Aquabumps Gallery for a sneak. 98 Brighton boulevard, North Bondi . Later, uge

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