Friday, June 29, 2007
crossoverswells How good has the past few days been? Just ridiculous. So as the smokin’ ESE swell of the past 3 days declined overnight, a new south swell starts pumpin’ into town. The ocean looked confused this morning as the two swells from different origins wobbled their way into our bays. It’s still around 6 […]
Thursday, June 28, 2007
peakin’Like my friend Nicky always says about her husband Jamie…"it peaked early". The predicted monster swell for today actually arrived a day early. Yesterday afternoon lit up as Sydney was bombarded with a huge ESE swell. I saw waves on sundown around the 10-12 foot solid mark. Only a handful of surfers braving the large […]
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
XXXL.June is big season. Write it down. Only been back from Mentawai 6 days and have witnessed 2 of the biggest swells of the year. At 6:40am I peeped through the blinds expecting a swell increase…and wow, we got one. Saw a monster 8 foot set peeling across the bay bathed in beautiful morning light. […]
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
skankshank It’s been big huh. The beefy south swell of the past few days has subsided this morning as a strange NE wind butchers. Bondi has some rideable 2-3 footers in the southern corner, but they looked really fat and a skanky black sludge was seeping into the line up from all the rain water […]
Friday, June 22, 2007
stormsSo what’s been happening since my Mentawai disappearance kids? "Storms" seems to be the common thread in everyone’s convo. Big storms. Like 30 year storms. Big tankers wrecked in Newy, big swells, sand pushed onto roads blah blah. But dang it’s cold back here. Freezing today. Haven’t worn shoes let alone much clothing for two […]
Tuesday, June 19 2007
Statistics.12 days, 6 surfers, 400 nautical miles traveled, 20 cartons of Bintangs drank (mostly by Damo), 85 kit kats, 40 Tim Tams, burning 4000 litres of diesel, 15 breaks surfed, 0 Broken boards, 1 spilt open head, the captain smoked 3 cartons of ciggies (and he’s on a health kick he reckons), 6 ipods, 6 […]
Monday, June 18 2007
tidur.I woke to our Indonesian deckhand ‘Indurah’ calling ‘Ombak tidur’ (the waves are sleeping). Yep he nailed it. They’re definitely sleeping. After a week of smokin’ waves it’s backed off…making for an opportune time to go through 50 gig of hot shots and give the body a chance to repair its aches and pains. We […]
Friday, June 15 2007
I like pasta.Any joint named after tubular shaped pasta has got to be worth surfing. Especially when you get it on its day. Today’s it’s smoking up here in Mentawai Islands (Indonesia). The forecasted swell arrived with all it’s grunt. Up here a good swell is 17 second period at 10 – 14 foot (summary […]
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Day 5 on the boatOpen any surf mag and you’ll find a photo of a guy in a barrel taken from the water. Yeah that old chestnut. I gotta say, never really tire of looking at barrel shots. Like this photo above. A young Frenchie slotted well deep in a Thunders pit at sunset. All […]
Wednesday, 13th June, 2007
Island paradiseThere’s a whopping 17,508 islands in Indonesia. 245.5 million people call this place home. Out here in the Mentawai Archipelago you barely see a single sole on these small palm lined islands. It’s like another world…where dug out canoes are still the most popular form of transport. The waves are consistently good up here. […]
Tuesday, June 12th, 2007
back again.Greetings from the Mentawai Islands, Indonesia, some 90 nautical miles south of Sumatra. I know what you’re all thinking "what…again?" yep…again. No folks. I don’t have any illegitimate Indonesia kids running around up here. I just couldn’t help myself when I got wind of a few available spots on the MV Tengirri power cat. […]
Wednesday, June 06, 2007
beefcakesSometimes a good pounding solves everything. It’s kinda cleansing been put through the washing machine after a decent 5 foot set breaking on your head. We’ve got waves this morning. Bigger than expected. 5 foot with odd bomb 6 foot set. Currently offshore it’s not a bad time to paddle out seeing the SE onshore […]
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
change.<delayed transmission 11am>There’s more pump in the chunk this morning. Sets are easily 3 foot at Bondi. But the onshores have begun to mess it up a little. It’s onshore for most of this week. But hey, look on the bright side, the longer the wind blows, the better the swell when the wind backs […]
Monday, June 04, 2007
Everything just looked a little vanilla today in the surf department. Especially in the shadows of the weekends solid four to six feet of joy. It’s dropped. Considerably. And lacking the punch required to give you a decent push. Swell is coming from the SE but only managing to touch the two foot bracket with […]
Friday, June 01, 2007
1st day of winter Of course today you’d be tempted to look out the window of that office and go…might just sneak off into this perfect weather and see whatssup down the beach. Well a hint of a south swell greeted us this morning. South facing Bondi was picking up every inch of it. Pity […]