Blake Thornton threading the needle

Simeulue Served

Last post from my extended Indonesian sabbatical.

It’s been a long lap. Warm water, remote islands and a very consistent supply of waves. Indo rarely disappoints.

We finished up in Simeulue, way up off northern Sumatra. It’s raw, remote and exposed to the full force of the Indian Ocean.

If you look at the map, Simeulue and the Mentawais jut further out into the Indian Ocean, while the Telos and Banyaks sit slightly more tucked in. The result is pretty noticeable. Simeulue and the Mentawais generally pick up more swell, often a foot or so bigger, while the others are a little more sheltered from the full brunt of those Indian Ocean swells.

There are plenty of hollow waves up here too, including some proper slabs, which you don’t see that often in Indonesia. A few of them are seriously heavy. Pro-level stuff, not your everyday holiday surf.

One arvo, we jumped on a local boat and headed about nine kilometres out into the Indian Ocean chasing a famous right-hander. (The ride back in through a storm was interesting!)

When we arrived, there wasn’t a soul around.

Perfect, hollow and very serious. Probably one of the scariest waves I’ve seen.

The funny thing is, even with nobody out, not many people could actually surf it. It’s one of those waves where you need to know exactly what you’re doing – and kick out before your grind your fins of raw reef.

We stayed at Aura Surf Resort, right in front of the most consistent wave on the island, The Peak. Fun for everyone: 12-year-olds, mums and frothing dads.

A pretty epic way to finish a long Indonesian stint.

Time to head home :: Yooj

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Spikey slotted for his big birthday

Off The Map

The harder it is to get to, the fewer people in the water. Simeulue sits about 150 kilometres off Sumatra and it’s not exactly easy to reach. Flights, ferries, board bags and weight limits all come into play, but the reward is loads of coastline without the usual crowds. It’s mountainous, green and slow moving. […]
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Blake Thornton, breakfast grinds. Aura Resort

Simeulue

We’ve switched island chains and headed north to Pulau Simeulue, about 150 kilometres off the coast of northern Sumatra. I’ve never been this far north in Indonesia before. Rare for me! Simeulue feels like stepping back in time. Simple village life, a predominantly Muslim island, thick jungle and a handful of little gem waves without […]
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The big Conan, under the hood

Island Hopping

After decades of documenting the Mentawai Islands, I still find it refreshing coming back here with a camera. Even when the trades are howling, these islands are ridiculously photogenic. Blue water, hollow peaks, colourful skies and nine days living on a boat, exposed to every little change in wind and swell. There’s always something to […]
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Goldie's Cameron Ward, hiding from the trades under the hood

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We’re getting late in the surf season up here in the Mentawais, which means one thing: trades. The predominant SE to SSE wind can blow all day, every day. They call this time of year “Goofy Season”, as the breaks protected from the trades tend to be lefts, while many of the rights are onshore. […]
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Croc lefts, Indonesia

Croc Country

Sorry about the radio silence. Indonesia is such a wild place. Flew in a couple of days ago, straight past Semeru, a 3,657-metre active volcano that was erupting as we went by. Welcome to Indo. Then the long haul out to the Mentawai Islands, about 150km off Sumatra. Twelve hours of slapping across the ocean […]
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Joe Hatton is launching from the Bunnies peak

Friday Lines

The swell has calmed down from yesterday, but there’s still plenty of size around. It’s a south swell at 184 degrees with an 11-second interval, and Bondi is still seeing waves well over head high, with the bigger ones around head-and-a-half. Unfortunately, a lot of them are just shutting down across the bay. Conditions are […]
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Simon AKA sharkie, running the gauntlet from the reef

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The wind was absolutely howling last night, and with it came a whole lot of swell. Bondi has jumped considerably overnight. There are solid six-footers marching into the bay this morning, with plenty of water moving around. Early was the window. It was semi-clean before the southerly really got into it, and there were some […]
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Surf check, eyeing off the left at Ramp Dos

Before the Blow

If you were down there for the early, you scored a pretty good little wave this morning. Bondi was 2–3 foot, offshore and clean early, with multiple banks working and plenty of options. There was a decent crowd on it, but enough waves getting around to keep everyone busy. Then the southerly arrived. We’ve now […]
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A little tease of colour,early

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I’ve had a business in Bondi Beach for 27 years, and in that time I’ve seen some pretty strange retail concepts come and go. There’s been Doglato, gelato for dogs. A Zeitgeist milk bar, a milk bar without milk. Kanye West’s Pablo pop-up, which opened and I’m still not entirely sure what was going on […]
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Ramp two happenings, 7am Bondi beach

Monday Lift

Another beautiful Monday morning in Bondi. It was around 13 degrees at sunrise, warming up to about 20 today. We might see a little shower around 5 or 6pm, but for now it’s pretty damn nice. Winds are light from the west this morning, before swinging southeast and then straight south later today, so get […]
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The Mutant, Claw inspired

Big Wave Series

Winter has delivered. Over the past few weeks I’ve been chasing some incredible swells, searching for those brief moments when everything comes together, the light, the wind, the spray and the sheer power of the ocean. It’s called the White Claw Big Wave Series. A collection of photographs celebrating the wild side of Australia’s coastline […]
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Pete-K won lotto with this set, but waited about 30 mins for it!

First Taste

Welcome to this 25-degree Thursday. Everyone was up early this morning, enjoying the warmth. The first properly warm morning we’ve had since last summer. Wasn’t it nice? Hope you got down for a swim or a little surf. There was a wave on, but nothing spectacular. Around 1-2 foot and a lot of people didn’t […]
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