Bondi Beach, 5:40am this morning

NE

We’ve got a nice clean morning, burner of a sunrise and small peaks at South Bondi. Around the corner at Tama would be much better due to it’s orientation to the swell source.

I saw waves mainly in the 1-2 foot range at Bondi. It’s hollow as there’s a huge rip in the south. (Heaps of weed too).

The water is ridiculously cold! Think mid-winter temps.

I recently shot a Google Pixel 3 ad campaign on one of their phones. If you work in the city you’ll see our results plastered all over Martin Place Train Station. Watch the behind the scenes how it all went down (this film was also made on a Pixel 3)

:: uge

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Rowan round house

Pulse

The waves pulsed a little this morning. At sunrise it looked tiny, but as the morning progressed the waves picked up – maybe even a head high set! NE winds are going to increase. The gale will flatten the swell and bring an NE wind swell. I’d expect 25 knots later. North Bondi will be […]
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Weeties, rip

Splash

Bondi, the most consistent (average) wave on the planet. There’s nearly always something to paddle onto down there. This morning was no exception. It’s only one foot, maybe two, but you’ll still get to your feet and slide down something. Don’t expect to stab out any turns or get shacked, but you’ll feel great for […]
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Log-heaven, The Pass, Byron Bay

A Day in the Bay

Cheer up. Slow down. Chill out. Yes, I’m in the herbal regions of Byron Bay today. The most ironic thing about Byron is that it’s manic – it’s busier than Bondi! The most easterly point of Australia juts out into the Pacific – with an enormous bay on one side (Byron Bay). This unique setup […]
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Tough day to keep the pool clean at high tide, Icebergs

Moods

I spent the morning chasing light rays around Bondi. From 7 am we were morphing from a grey, multi-layered, dark cloudy morning to brilliant sunshine. Some spectacular moments so I cranked up the medium format 100-megapixel bad boy and shot some slow shutters. There is plenty of new swell. Waves are breaking in the 3-5 […]
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Marie Lebourgeois

Embrace

After a hot night sometimes it’s tough dragging yourself down the beach in the morning. You’re half asleep, meandering down to the water’s edge – then Boom! Once you’re underwater you feel like a million bucks. Studies show that a swim in cool water can give you mental clarity. (Yes, I do believe it needs […]
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The old boat ramp, a treasured spot at sunset

RED CARDINAL

I’m backing the Red Cardinal in today’s Melbourne Cup. Only because Bondi Beach (who came 2nd last year) isn’t running. Who are you supporting? It’s going to be hot and muggy (31) for your Cup luncheon today. No, you’re not missing any action down the beach, it’s very overcast, sticky and 1-2 foot on the […]
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Board training, Friday 2 October 5:30pm

Groundswell

There’s a groundswell hitting Bondi, both on the land and in the ocean. It was a massive weekend around here. One of the first hot ones combined with the sculptures. Thousands of humans powered into Bondi… even the cafes that are usually empty were full! Today I swam my regular south corner at sunrise and waves broke […]
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Bondi Beach 6am, coloured skies

Hot hot hot

Flick the out-of-office on; you’re done for the day. It’s too hot not to go to the beach. There’s a huge mass of hot air creeping into Sydney from inland Australia. It’s gonna hit 37 degrees today. Yep, you read it right, 37. Waves – yeah, there’s some for the logs. 1-2 foot, peeling at 6 […]
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What's the time Uncle Joel?

Irriguous

Hot and muggy one, and it’s only getting hotter. That’s something to be excited about. Good to see loads of crew enjoying our weedy waters down Bondi. Small waves, dribbles really, yet contestable. Take a high volume surf craft. Tomorrow, oh boy, tomorrow…hot hot hot! Water has warmed up as, shed some rubber. :: uge, […]
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Morning rituals, Icebergs, Bondi Beach

Warmth

The mornings are getting warmer and the crowds growing as we slide in summer. Bondi is nuts in summer. Just watch the TV show! To my surprise, we have half decent waves in Bondi this morning. Its a junkie confused ocean, a lil’ onshore, with swell coming in from all directions, but there’s a head high […]
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mood

Soak

Sunshine – yes – soak it up. Waves too, much smaller than yesterday. 2-3 foot, clean. Yesterday I was surfing with a just a couple others. This morning at sunrise – gridlock. WOW. Packed. A ding repairers heaven. Have you checked out the slabby new surf lake in Queensland? Looks fun. :: uge
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Francoise surf check

Blanket

Under a blanket of thick morning cloud, we have waves! Hooray! I’m calling it 3-4 footers. Winds are currently offshore and surfaces are clean. I’d surf it before the winds swing light onshore later today. A higher tide seems to make it hold up better also. This week we have some great weather coming – […]
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