Today is the end of the Fiscal Year. Doesn’t mean much to many other than hoping for some tax return money. The waves have gone all quiet. Bondi was struggling at 1-2 foot. Water was warm at 20 degrees whilst it was very cold out (especially before the sun). If you need some artwork for […]

It’s rare, but it does happen….Bondi has tiny tubes today. OK, they’re more like the occasion open close out, but it looked fun this morning. The grooming offshores were making it a little more organised than yesterday. It is still very cold. Smaller tomorrow but surfable for the next 7 days around here. :: uge

Yesterday was the coldest day in 21 years. It only reached 11.7 degrees. Today is warmer, can still feel it biting deep into the bones. Some people don’t feel the cold. Just take a look at Lee in the photo above. Stickers…morning stroll before sunrise at the North end where it was really windy. Wind […]

Bondi’s a ghost town in and out of the water. The cold has driven everyone away. It’s frosty down there…you can feel that it’s snowing in the mountains. The waves looked really good and empty. Not many interested at all. 3-4 foot, SE swell and WNW winds which will pick up today. A lot of […]

Where did it all go? Overnight the swell ran off leaving barely any scraps. From 4 foot to 0 foot! Breathe…breathe…it’s coming back. In fact it will be too big tomorrow to surf around here. I would go for a long drive and chase locations that suit 6 foot dead south swell with offshore hooooowwwwliung […]

It was a cold morning in Sydney. 9 degrees to be specific. If you wanna feel alive, go for a swim. You’ll feel great for the rest of the day. Swell was lingering this morning (2-3ft) from the dead south gravitating towards Bondi. We have a unusual sand bank setup at the moment from the […]

It’s really calmed down a lot around here. The ocean has defaulted to it’s chilled state. Biggest wave I saw all morning was knee to waist high. It’s super clean and decent for a swim. This weekend a huge South swell is going to hit Sydney. I am talking 10 foot at magnets. Wind will […]

Last nights’ storms weren’t that bad. Bit of wind and rain. That’s all gone now. Think we were all on high alert after the big one. There is swell, it’s fresh (NE), it’s wonky and still working itself out. Hopefully the underlying South swell will kick a little for Bondi surfers. Is it pumping ? […]

Things you need to know today: a) Gabs Medina just took out the Fiji Pro over Wilko in 10 foot surf. Wilko is having an awesome year. b) Bondi has waves, big ones, big ones that close out all the time (3-4 foot) c) We had quite a decent sunrise today. Not epic. 6/10 is […]

It was only 9 degrees as I roamed around South Bondi. With the stiff offshore chill it felt colder. Bondi is best known for it’s packed peak summer days, but the reality is most of the time it’s like this in winter – empty. I like it. So quiet down there. Barely anyone swimming or […]

What is going on? What is going on? I go overseas for 12 days and Sydney blows up, literally? The photos I’ve seen just don’t look real. A 13 metre swell in town…whaaaaaat? Cape Fear runs with a psycho north swell (so dangerous on that direction), a huge water tank is lifted from the Icebergs […]

I write to you from the middle of the treacherous Mentawai strait…yes, we’re heading home. The Ratu Motu chugs along at 13 knots heading for the mainland port of Padang. It’s silky smooth and our 3 storey/39 metre chunk of steel is barely rocking. Blessed. You’ve all read stories of Mentawais, it’s a well trodden path […]

We’ve been hiding out in a small pocket of the Mentawais for days and days, on our own. It’s been awesome. No humans for miles. So many waves to choose from and only 12 surfers on our boat to ride them. With a inbound monster swell, I would say that’ll change. My surf guide and […]

I am having a good day. Currently I’m on the 39 metre Ratu Motu parked up against one of the most beautiful islands on this planet. I’ve been here many times…it’s a favourite. A right hander wraps the island producing 300-400 metre rides. It’s really quite ridiculous. The stuff you dream of. Then the water is always […]

Selmat Pagi. Even though the Mentawai Islands are only 150 kms off the coast of Indonesian Sumatra, it’s a different world out here. The volatile conditions of the Mentawai Strait have kept these people isolated from the modern world and they remain one of the most purest indigenous societies on the globe. The last few days […]

We’re having a stormy time here in the Mentawais, despite the glassy conditions depicted in today’s imagery. Last night a bad eye hit. 60 knots dragged two anchors and looted the boat. Probably the worst storm I’ve ever seen up here in 17 trips. Reminded me of the Wolf of Wall Street leaving Portofino…except we […]

Most surfers have the Mentawais on their hit list. It’s just one of those magical places on earth. There’s 70 islands in the Mentawais hanging 150kms off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia.  Why is it so good? The waves are incredible here (consistently). There is just so many different reefs to surf and being on […]