How's the swim lagoon off this island (No names)

The Boogeyman

Strangely, ‘The Boogeyman’ that monster who supposedly lives in children’s bedrooms, could have begun life as a pirate…a pirate from Indonesia! The Bugis are Indonesian people from Sulawesi who were bandits of the sea, feared by many along the spice routes in the 17th-19th centuries. So when you hear “Beware of The Boogeyman”, they could […]

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Wave of his life for the São Paulian frothe lord

Badais, Tribes and Tides

The Indonesian archipelago of Mentawais (‘Ments’) consists of 70 islands, but four larger islands dominate the landscape. The wave-rich area lines the outside of Sumatra and cops the full brunt of swells from the south. June, July, and August are typically peak seasons with the biggest waves of the year, but so far, we’ve only […]

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Nice place to have lunch

Away

I know, I know, it’s been a while between posts. I’ve been on the move and migrated north to the warm oceans of Indonesia. They’ve had a great run of swell up here for the early season, and it’s been very well documented on socials. We’re a few days into our journey through the islands, […]

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Linework, Icebergs

Brr.

Oh wow, it was a cold morning (and still is). The wind chill was bringing it right down. As we approach winter solstice, the sun rises very late, I’m waiting around tapping my foot for most of the morning. Waves are bigger but not better. No one surfing Bondi says it all. Showers are due […]

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Morning date in the waves, Bondi 7am

Steep change

It’s gone from a glorious winter sunny morning to cold and overcast. The wind has arrived and is letting rip in Sydney, circa 25-30 knots. Forecasts reveal a steep increase in swell, from 1ft to 8ft overnight. That is quite exciting. Everyone loves a big tanking swell. I saw heaps of whales splashing around just […]

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7am, Bondi. Was better 15 mins before! Sorry

Amateur hour

It was a comedy of errors that made me miss a glorious Bondi sunrise today. I felt like a fumbling amateur getting to the beach 10-15mins late. Considering I’ve only done this approximately 6,000 times, you’d think I’d have this sunrise shooting thing on lock! Hahah. Sorry, tomorrow I’ll be up at 5 am, tripod […]

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Pool transitions, Icebergs 7am

Longevity

The swell just keeps giving, day in and day out. Today, there are high waves under partly cloudy skies. Light winds currently before a decent chunk of rain. A top of 18 degrees, cooler and typical of this time of year. Aquabumps is 25 years old this year and we’re in the process of rebranding, […]

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Boom! Nice colours for a short moment this morning

Red Light

After a very dark, cloudy morning, at around 7 a.m., we were blasted with red light rays – it was spectacular and unexpected. Light is everything, freshening up my regular subject – Bondi. Coincentently, the waves were cooking this morning. Multiple peaks hosted 3-4 footers at sunrise. Everyone was on for hump day, scores of […]

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Jetty, morning finner, Bondi 7:20am

24hours

It’s incredible what a difference 24 hours makes in the ocean. Yesterday, it was unsurfable and thundering into the bay, bouncing off the back walls. Today, it’s completely dropped off and only 3 foot – how good! Nice clean offshores grooming the multiple Bondi peaks. Large crowds up early, tackling the cooler mornings. It will […]

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It's huge today, huge! North Bondi

Enormous

It’s huge. I saw three surfers paddle out at North Bondi, weaving in between sets, to try to score a wave at South Bondi without success. There’s just so much going on out there, water moving everywhere you’d need a ski to fling you, I reckon. Wait for it to calm down. How big? Well, […]

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Contrasts of suburban surfing. Urbnsurf Sydney

Grey-Blues

It’s a very grey, dark, 1ft Bondi Friday—SO—I’ve chosen to show you some pics from the wave pool archives I shot a couple of weeks ago. I love that pool. It’s a fun machine, good times for everyone—kids, shredders, wives…hail rain or onshore, it’s on. Showers are coming today in Bondi, I am guessing around […]

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Byrnn, about to get crunched

Crunchie

It’s smaller, sunny, and crunchie. A shallow South Bondi was on the “mini tube” setting for tiny humans. The froth levels were high, as 25-35 kilo tykes dominated. Been outside, nice, isn’t it? Sydney at its best. It could hit 24 degrees today before going bad with rain, rain, rain and a whopping swell on […]

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Cavity glow, Bondi circa 7am today

Little Monsters

The swell has slipped a few gears, and the little tykes dominated the south peak. The low tides made it tricky, but the groms tucked in. It’s only 2-3 feet and clean at sunrise. It was a cold morning, with only 8 degrees on the mercury. The wind was particularly brutal, but the brine was […]

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Put the foot down and pray

Turbo

It’s pretty frustrating out there on the lower tides. Basically, you paddle into a set and pray it stays open for a bit before exploding on the shallow banks. It’s a board breaker and claimed Glynnie’s board before sunrise. It’s a shame, as it has all the ingredients of a cooking day: sun, swell, and […]

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Light dance on my port as a massive set broke

Pounding

I copped a bit of a pounding at South Bondi earlier this morning. I guess I underestimated the sets as, at first glance, it looked reasonable. It’s very shallow, with a 5 am low tide and a lot of sand gathered at the South. Trying to slip under sets with a large camera and nowhere […]

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Snapper Rocks, bathed in golds

Goldie

The Goldie never fails to put on glorious weather and waves. It feels like summer up here; everyone’s in shorts and surfing in boardies. There’s been a healthy swell supply, and Snapper and D-bah have had plenty (plenty of crew too!) School and work seem to take a back seat when there are opportunities to […]

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The super bank is a freak of nature (well, semi-nature)

Super Bank

I’m just up the road at The Superbank, aka Coolie. This place is a mecca for surfers, a hive of talented wave riders who dominate every wave along the Gold Coast. Schools are out, and there are kids everywhere, as many are here to try their luck at the Australian Interschool Championships running over the […]

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Large pod in Bronte/Tamarama all morning putting on a show

Dolphin Show

The talk of the morning around Bronte and Tamarama was a very large pod of Dolphins frolicking in the morning light. They were having a great time pleasing the morning walkers. Waves are bigger, messy and not ideal. Bondi looked junkie, and with cross-onshore forecast, I’d pass. Bronte has some lefts back into the corner, […]

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Early morning thunder, Bondi

Chilled

It’s the first cold morning of the year as the mercury drops below 12 degrees. The strong southwesterly bites deep, especially when exiting the ocean in ya togs. There is a lot of swell with waves breaking well overhead high. The lineup was relatively empty, with just the Dutch Olympic Surf Team out and a […]

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Golden Hollows, Bondi 7am today

Cup Day

The Bondi SurfAid Cup is currently on down at Bondi, and there are plenty of waves and sunshine. There are few shots from the actual comp because I’m in it with the groms as their mascot. Thank you again so much for all your support and donations. The Aquabumps groms raised 9k for Surfaid, which […]

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Joccy right in the pocket, Bondi 7am

Lil’ Bumps

Our fantastic run of swell has come to an end, and today’s swell is smaller yet still surfable. Clean conditions at sunrise under very dark, cloudy skies. A massive pack of hungry 20-30 kilo groms out, feasting on anything moving into the bay. The little ones have such a good time in the water – […]

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Peekaboo with Willie, under the thick lip. Bondi 7am

Curvature

Autumn in Sydney never fails us, a constant supply of swell and some really curving water at South Bondi. Sets broke over head high, crowds were hungry and the water reasonably warm for this time of year. The day began dark under threatening dark skies, but at 9 a.m., it cleared for a glorious sunny […]

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7:30am today. It's really here, URBNSURF Sydney is open

Pool Party

I found waves of the chlorinated variety this morning – yes – the long-awaited URBNSURF Sydney is now open at Homebush Olympic Park! Phoooar. Before URBN Sydney, I had never surfed a wave pool. They’re fascinating. You can’t stop hooting at iridescent blue nuggets pulsating from the top corner as you enter the gates. The […]

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Jetty's a perfect size when the lip throws.

Nug Farm

There’s a massive high-pressure system smothering Australia right now. I’m told it’s stubborn and won’t move on, blocking change (that sounds like my tykes). The pressure pushing down on the ocean is also creating very low tides. Weird huh? I won’t mind this rain period moving on, though… One of the benefits of the current […]

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One of Bondi's most underrated slayers, Luke Adam

Wet-Wetties

Nothing is worse than donning a wet wettie in the dark before sunrise. This persistent nemesis onshore rain pattern seems stuck over Sydney – and won’t push offshore. Nonetheless, there are plenty of waves this morning in the chest to occasionally head wide variety. Huge pack of groms up early, feasting before school. Currently, the wind is holding off […]

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Zygi Mann mad about the laid back today

Onshore Flow

The onshore pattern continues today and will hang around for days to come. Earlier, the winds were light so that you could find the odd clean face; now it’s 11 knots onshore and probably a tad junkie. Waves broke around head high, few rip bowls littered up on the beach. Quiet morning at Bondi, the […]

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The doors to the ark

Ark

The ark doors have flung open, and we now walk out into the sunshine, a little dazed and confused. What’s this? Clear skies? Nooooooway. For how long? Looking at the charts, it could turn any minute now, so enjoy a coffee outside. The southeast winds are howling 20-25 knots, and Bondi is a 4-6 foot bay of […]

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From where you'd rather be! This isn't Bondi today

Yeahhh,Nahh.

Several times today, I thought there would be a break in the rain long enough to perform my morning rituals and capture Bondi Beach.  Yeahhh,Nahh. This damn rain just won’t let up! I thought we were out of Nino, Nina, and Nonna. Surely! We’ve been tossed into Winter (unwillingly), and I’m currently browsing airline websites looking for […]

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Hip hip hooray, the sun came out this morning. Bondi 7am

Suns Out

Wasn’t that a relief, a morning of glorious sunshine after all the constant downpours in Sydney? The forecast is calling for another week or more of rain, so I really hope you got out, as it’s now raining again. Surprisingly, the waves were good, head high and clean. The junior Dutch surf team was out […]

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It's not all 22 million dollar apartments down there

Grimy Bondi

People’s perception of Bondi is always postcard sunny skies, 3-footers (straight), large glamourous crowds, Bondi Rescue, outdoor gyms, and record-breakingly priced luxury apartments. Sometimes, not today. The grime is still in Scum Valley; we have stormy days, and waves are bigger in your bathtub. The beach was quiet as most started to retreat into the […]

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Paddleboarders dominated the south end today, 7am

Hello Bondi

I’m back in the hood and enjoying the glorious sunshine. Lap it up my friends, as starting tomorrow, the weather will decline into showers, and from Friday onwards, it will be super wet! A pink hue surrounded Ben Buckler’s pre-rise as unsurfable 1-2 footers shut down—straight as a ruler. Several people tried to negotiate the […]

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The water colours here are jaw dropping.

Jani

We’ve arrived at the Noonu Atoll, Maldives, searching for the bluest water on the planet. We’re on the island of Medhufaru where Soneva Jani lies. It’s a dreamy, idyllic place where two long jetties into a giant lagoon connect your room to the land. It’s like living on a boat; everywhere you look, there is […]

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Welcome to the Maldives, a aquatic haven like no other!

Away / Mol·deevz

It’s been 14 years since my last visit to the world’s lowest islands – Maldives (mol·deevz). I love this place; it’s a giant aquatic playground with 1192 islands (only a fifth are inhabited). Try scrolling through Instagram without seeing an idyllic image of crystal blue water and tiny islands in the Maldives—impossible. So many come […]

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Swell is big today, thundering out the back. Bondi 7am

Abrupt Chills

And just like that, the switch has been flicked; we’ve got chilly mornings with large southerly winter swells. Bring out the jumpers from storage. Bondi was relatively empty compared to a few weeks ago. Two surfers were out, but there were not many people on the sand. The waves are 6 feet solid, maybe bigger, […]

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Luke Adam, blasting

South Chump Change

As I write this, a south change is moving from stage right. It’s bringing wind and waves – lots of wind. Tonight expect SSW 30 knots plus. The wave energy will ramp, and tomorrow, you’ll see conditions similar to last Saturday’s 8-footers. It will be very messy with all that wind, but interesting nonetheless. Have […]

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My teenager, throwing out the morning heat. Yeah Jetty!

Downshifting

It’s been quite dramatic around here lately. The storm (like a Typhoon) that ripped Sydney on Friday night passed quickly, leaving a string of days with glorious weather and waves. Saturday was solid, 10ft, yesterday 4-6, today 2-3….as the swell energy downshifts through its gears. It’s surfable now, and the morning was sunny and warm…before […]

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Bronte, the hub!

Randomness

We’re all freaking out cause it’s gonna rain for a few days – some say 100mm tomorrow (so stoked as there’s no roof on most of my house currently under reno). Those dreamy after-work scorchers spent dunking in the ocean are over – for now. The beach and waves looked dire this morning—onshore, dark grey, […]

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Wanna surf? Lots of waiting around like this

Level

It’s rare for Bondi to be this flat. There’s always something. This morning the ocean was motionless, still, level…like a lake. It is good for a swim, but not so good for a surf. Tomorrow, there will be more wave energy, but the weekend will host the biggest waves of the week. Friday will be […]

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Tuesday sunrise, warm water, pinks. Bondi 6:55am

Return

The Easter break is over, and the Bondi sunrise colours resume. It’s a beautiful warm morning in Sydney as we head to a top of 29 degrees. There is a high chance of rain today, with tiny surf. It will be tiny all week until a big kahuna swell arrives over the weekend. Bells are […]

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Double pools of Bondi's most famous swimming club

Recent Work

I’ve been waiting for a lame, grey, onshore day to show you a few pics from my recent adventures. In contrast to today’s bland flavour, recently, we’ve been blessed with epic ocean colours and endless beach weather. I didn’t shoot anything today, which is rare for me. It’s a great day to be inside and […]

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