Bondi sure is a busy place, especially in the mornings. The prom is choccas, every day. I get it, no better place to see the sun come up, grab a java, have a chill before diving into your day. It’s what I’ve done for 22 years! Today started with bland light under a thick cloud. […]

If you tried and couldn’t make it out there this morning, that’s ok, it’s big and rather straighty-180. I saw a lotta surfers leaving the beach with dry hair, foamie between their legs – when in doubt, don’t go out! Huge amount of water moving on the sets. The swell has grown overnight into the […]

Today is a big day in Sydney, SCHOOL IS BACK. After drop punting the ferals over the school gate, I’ve painted my face blue and white, screaming FREEEEDOM! FREEEEDOM on the streets of Bondi. Parents are high-fiving, parents are in the surf, parents are drinking champers in the bars – we’ve got our lives back! […]

This morning at Bondi, the light was in a constant state of flux. It would flick between overcast, flat light to uber contrasty golden rays (my favourite flavour). I feel it was leftover volatility from the rain and storms that passed through before sunrise. Right now, as I write this riveting editorial in Aquabumps headquarters, […]

The surf was on so all of Bondi’s finest shredders were up for the early. It was quite a display of high-performance surfing. I was busy today, reos on the rights, airs on the shorey, carves on the lefts. It was a very active lineup with consistent waves around head-high. At dawn I began in […]

Velvety gold rays strung out across the bay this morning; the kinda light I love to shoot. Everything looks good, draped in gold. It’s even more of a treat when I was expecting a fully clouded sky and junkie ocean this morning. It’s clean and head-high, that howling southerly has passed on by. Both sandbanks were […]

I think you already know (as the beach was packed this a.m.), there were some pretty fun surf conditions. Bondi was operating on two sandbanks, and hundreds of frothers flocked to the water for their salty dose. I saw plenty of waves over head-high, some wash through sets. I wore a steamer as I find […]

Sydney is feeling semi-normal as we open up a bit more. A delightful weekend of spring weather and a thundering south swell that arrived on Sunday morning and continues today. It is fools gold out there; you probably ran down with your board thinking you’re going to score some four-footers…if you like close outs and surfing straight, […]

We’ve had another morning of sunshine, north winds and north swell. Everyone was up early, hitting the beach… it was busy. Walkers, surfers, people carry rocks, boot camps, outdoor gyms, doof doof…a hive of activity in the wee hours. The surf looks much cleaner than in previous days. The water is SUPER CHILLY after the […]

FINALLY, it’s stopped raining, and the sunshine has broken through. Nice to see everybody out and about, doing their morning rituals. Waves were breaking on two sandbanks, a left and a right, but only around waist high and very fat. You need a high volume surf vehicle today and plenty of patience. With the North […]

d a n k adjective,dank·er,dank·est.unpleasantly moist or humid; damp and, often, chilly:a dank cellar. Well, Sydney is having one helluva wet freedom week. It’s been raining for days. Probably best stay indoors for a while longer, nah, not in the concrete bunkers again. Wait for the storm to pass. The wind has kicked around from the dead […]

Another grey, rainy, onshore start to today. The beaches were busy earlier before the rain hit. There’s a tiny mushball waist to shoulder high wave with a handful of optimistic surfers hunting – it looked very average. Need those onshores to stop before you score anything decent to ride. Hopefully, tomorrow we will see some cleansing […]

Whilst it’s an ugly day, weatherwise in Sydney, it’s a beautiful day for Sydney-siders as the shackles come off from a 106-day lockdown. Freedom day, some call it, that day a lot of people have been hoping for. Get a haircut – that mullet ain’t looking great! We’d run out of food in our bunker, so […]