Red toke, Santa Monica, California

Rain

It hasn’t stopped raining since I woke. Sydney is getting a thorough rinsing today – thankfully. It’s been 72 days since we’ve had more than 2mm of rain. Our last day decent wet was June 10! Bring it on – my garden is loving it. We should receive between 15mm and 25mm today.
The winds are still right now as I write, but around 11 am she’s gonna hoooooowwl 30 knots from the dead south. Bunker in, binge out on Netflix or maybe do some work. Sunday the winds will go offshore again.
Rather than show you 10 images shot from my car or under an umbrella of 1-2 foot Bondi, here are 10 photos from the travel archives that haven’t graced your inbox. I hope you enjoy them. Travel for me always keeps me inspired after nearly 20 years of shooting daily.
OK, later. Have a great weekend :: uge
 

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1st sparks, Bondi.

Brine

Nothing like jumpin’ in the ocean to wake you up after travel. Especially when the northerlies have been blowing in Sydney and the water temps have plummeted to a cool 16.5 degrees. Yes, I know my Kiwi cuzies, 16.5 is a summer’s day for you guys, but over here in Sydney, that’s cool.
Waves? yeah…a surfable 1-2 foot at Bondi which neglects the swell origin of NE. Tamarama, Bronte or even Da Bra would have more energy. It’s a sensational day as we cook to 26 degrees. Go outside now as rain coming later on tonight.
Had a great time in Taranaki (NZ). Next time I’d go in Autumn or Winter with bigger swells and less wind. Also, I am gonna climb that mountain one day! He’s wild! I hiked to 1000m the other night but was too wild on top Watch a quickie 1 minute vid from my eye in the sky flying thing.
:: uge

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Bashing into the wind, Campsites, Oakura, Taranaki

The Surf Highway

State Highway 45 around Taranaki is dubbed ‘The Surf Highway’ due to the vast number of surf breaks wrapping this corner of the North Island. I can see that with the right conditions there is 100 km’s of coastline to surf…most probably on your own.
I’ve got a nasty south-west gale terrorizing the area today, limiting surf options to just a protected few. Right out front of where I am staying is really the best-protected corner break, called ‘Campsites’. There’s a little rip bowl feeding a windy right, it’s around head high and got a few nice sections on it. The water is a bit cool, most wear 3/3 with hoods. Booties and gloves not really required. In summer, for a few months of the year you can get away with a vest and boardies! Winter is when it pumps here though…then you’d need some serious rubber coverage.
Taranaki reminds me of Margaret River WA. Farms and country waves – the only difference is there’s a huge mountain towering over the coast called Mount Taranaki, which I haven’t seen yet as it’s been smothered with clouds. Tonight I am gonna climb it or around it to try and catch a glimpse of the peak. Gonna be chilly with howling winds!
I hear the weather has been amazing back in Sydney. Enjoy.
Later,
:: uge

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Ahu Ahu villas, tucked away on the end of Ahu Ahu Beach

Taranaki

Every year I fly over that little ditch to New Zealand. This year I’m in the Taranaki area, where the mountains meet the coast. (The wild west coast of the North Island).
The area has two main attractions –

Obviously Mt Taranaki, an enormous, stunningly symmetrical volcanic cone towering 2.5kms over the rogue coast.
The 105-kilometre Surf Highway 45 which starts from the nearest city New Plymouth and runs down around the bottom of the North Island. Point breaks are plentiful, swell is consistent, crowds are non-existent. In fact, it’s quite rare to see any more than two people on a peak so far. Just take any farm road off the highway leading to the coast and you’ll probably find a little wave at the end. Just ask permission before running across paddocks and close the farm gates so the livestock doesn’t go loose. I’ve unfortunately timed my trip with some howling cross shore winds…just waiting for them to subside.

For me, the part I love about New Zealand is the people. They are ridiculously hospitable and friendly to travellers. Everyone is genuinely interested in what you’re up to, where you’re going…offering guidance or local insights. Choice!
Thanks Air New Zealand transporting me and all my gear across the Tasman and Ahu Ahu Beach Villas so I can sleep to the sound of the ocean.
Chur, :: uge

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You think you're local beach is busy, come surf ours

Flipside

Yesterday ended up being quite a special day down the beach with awesome colours.
Don’t believe me? Watch this 1 min fly around Bondi…you’ll see. (around 30,000 have already watched this video our on social channels!)
Not much happening down the beach this morning surfwise – 1footish. Sunshine was out earlier, clouding over now.
A cooler and showery weekend ahead. Nothing that interesting on the swell radar – as you were.
:: uge

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Twin Peaks, sunny today? Really?

Morph

If you stood next to me this morning on the beach (in the rain)…and I told you it was going to be perfectly sunny and 27 degrees today, you’d think I was a can short of a six-pack.
Well, it’s true (Sunshine, not that I’m a can short). It’s gonna happen. 10 am onwards is a beach day.
There is a dribbly NE wind swell in town, Bondi was 0.5 foot as it faces mega south and neglects this swell origin. Bra or Tama will have some flimsy wind chop which may classify as surfable, but I wouldn’t get too excited.
As I finish typing this post I can see sunshine starting to kick into my skylight, right on time!
:: uge

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Take the mal for a spin this morning

Move along…

Some mornings just don’t offer much to shoot. Making something interesting from the mundane can be a real challenge. Today’s the well is dry!
The beach was quite empty, the skies a shade of dark grey. The surf was a lacking 1 foot with some junk on it. Tough.
We have  NE swell today which should pick up to head high tonight. Tomorrow is going to be a fantastic sunny beach day and 27 bangers. R.D.O for sure.
:: uge

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Drifters, Bondi Beach this morning

Oops

Obviously, you weren’t meant to receive 2 x Aquabumps daily emails in the one day! Oops!
Yesterday’s daily post was stuck in the cogs of cyberspace overnight…and was just released before this one. I’ve put in a call to Gates and told him to sort his [email protected]#$T out.
Ok, now, where was I? Beach. Well, it wasn’t a memorable morning really. Began with rain, the surf looks a surfable junkie 2-3 foot. Crowds were minimal and sky grey. I got all fancy with old lenses to try and trick up the photos a bit for ya.
Thursday looks like a cracker beach day (27*). Take the day off.
:: uge (yooj)

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Empty rights, South Bondage

Hurro

Hi, hello, hey, yo, how are you?
Today we’ve been blessed with a solid SE swell. Bondi Beach is lighting up with 3-5.2 footers. It looked fun, but not proper cranking. Loads of wash throughs and closeouts to negotiate.
After a rainy start, we look set to bake up to 29 salubrious degrees. Hit the beach!
Oh, and it’s gonna get REAL windy. WSW 30 knots due for this arvo, so you’ll probably find your washing in your neighbour’s yard.
We are looking for staff to man our Bondi Beach Gallery (selling stuff). If you want to join our dynamic team, read this job description and fire us ya amazing 1 pager resume.
:: uge
 

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Matt Pearson tucked inside tightly into this Bondi wedgey

#Goodtimes

To begin our daily chat today I have a video from my most recent trip, Nihiwatu (Sumba Indonesia). WATCH NOW (hey, it’s only 2 mins, if you think you don’t have time to watch a 2 min vid then you need a holiday!)
Proper good times this morning. The swell has kicked around to the south and streaming nicely in Bondi’s bay. Suns out, banks are on, surfaces are clean, it’s Friday – alleluia!
It is going to be shortlived though, as this swell will drop tonight.
It’s true…we are recruiting salespeople for our Bondi Beach gallery floor. Summer is the busy season for us. Read this job description, if it sounds like you, then send us a CV (1 pager). Just to re-iterate, this job is in our gallery, nah, not roaming around the world taking the occasional photo whilst sipping cocktails. That’s jobs gone.
:: uge

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Ian Wallace, one of the oldest groms on the beach

Tama-hammer

The swell has gone NE and Bondi is lacking. The great thing about Sydney is that we have beaches that face all kinds of directions, so if you just pop over the hill you will find something breaking.
Tamarama had a few nuggets on the low tide. The tide is filling up now so I am pretty sure that will be all over. Tama hates the higher tides.
Tomorrow we should be back in south swells…
Have fun.
:: uge

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The Friendy morning dominance, Bondi Beach

The Slow

I’m back in the ‘hood after my quick fling with Perth Metro waves. So nice and quiet over there.
Decent little junkie waves at Bondi this morning. Good to see our sandbanks are holding tight. Few fun little runners.
It’s school holidays in NSW and Bondi feels quiet, like everyone has left town.
People ask me all the time what gear I use, watch this to see what I use for post-production.
:: uge
 

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City Beach (Perth) never looked so good

#PerthIsOk

A quick stop in Perth Western Australia proved quite fruitful. An NE swell is in the Sandgroper City and there is plenty of peaks worthy of a surf. City Beach, of all places, had pretty incredible little hollow rights off the groyne…
My fascination for the ocean began around here in Perth. As kids, we were tortured by the Freo Doctor (persistent summer sea breeze) as we tried to surf closeouts at Trigg and Scabs. The surf is rarely good in the city, not like Sydney. But Down South (Margs), Rotto, or far up north have hundreds of empty breaks that would blow your minds. You just have to be prepared for a drive.
There are big sharks here. Yesterday a Belgian lady was tossed in the air by a 4 metre great white at North Point. She’s unharmed – just a little rattled Read
On Friday the Surfaid Cup ran at Manly in 0.5 footers (ouch). $240k was raised for SurfAid which is so good – it will save so many lives in Indonesia. Thank you to all my readers that donated, the Aquabumps team raised $11k and even won the Cup for surfing! The Aquabumps team of Matt Bemrose, Pama Davies, Tyson Millar, Chris Friend and I had a lucky win.
:: uge

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Bondi Beach on the weekend, standing room only!

Bake

The weekend was the 1st big one for the season – hot, muggy, crowded with northerly winds – just perfect for a lazy Sunday afternoon on our beloved coastline. A lot of wintery bleached white bods on the beach, hunting their first dose of a base tan.
Waves – not really happening today or on the weekend. Be patient, they’ll come back…
A lot of people ask me what I do all day (thinking I just hang down the beach!), watch this video for a little insight into my studio in Bondi – where I spend most of my day.
:: uge

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Chris Friendy, thriving in the decent conditions

#YES!

I vote YES to surfing today! YES! tick.
Suns out, waves are consistent, rip bowls are on. It’s pretty crowded and hard to get a wave at Bondi, so I would go for a drive and score my friends. The weather is just awesome and tomorrow is going to hit 28 degrees. Perfect for the SurfAid Cup at Manly tomorrow (kicks off at 8 am).
Thank you so much to all the readers that donated to Surfaid via our Aquabumps surf team, I greatly appreciate it. My sons will come around and mow your lawn, wash your cars and take out the rubbish. We raised $8.5k for the needy people of remote Indonesia.
:: uge

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Lotsa junk but doable, Bondi

Doable

Firstly, I want to apologise. The images in today’s post are full of dust spots. When you shoot arty pharty slow shutters (with tiny apertures) you need a squeaky clean image sensor – that I don’t have. So instead of spending the next 3 hours de-dusting these shots, I ran ’em…just as they are. If you want a print, I’ll just have fill the work experience kid full of caffeine and get him onto it.
As forecasted the swell has leapt up. I saw sets around the 4-5 foot mark which was thoroughly impressive. It’s super junky though. Heaps of bump, wobble and side chop to hop. A mega-rip in the southern corner, just in front of Icebergs is creating a solid wedge on the right conditions. You’ll need your paddle fitness though, it will drag you out to New Zealand in a matter of seconds.
If you’re doing nothing, get out there.
If you’re busy, wait until it settles.
Hope this swell hangs around for Friday’s SurfAid Cup at Manly.
Sephora in the Junga / Score an Aquabumps Book
Attention ladies – I presume you know Sephora beauty care? Well, it’s coming to Bondi Junction and doors open this Saturday at 10 am. If you spend over $100 bucks our friends at Sephora are gifting the first 500 of you one of our Aquabumps Bondi Books worth $50! Too good to be true – all the deets are here 
:: uge

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Sums up Bondi surfing.

Dropped

It’s dropped off a helluva lot overnight. Leftover dribbles best suited to large surf craft with volumes well into the thirties. That’s cool, tomorrow the swell will return.
The next few days should have fun waves, tomorrow being the biggest.
The Bondi Barefoot is on Sunday, 24 September 2017. It’s a bunch of soft sand races – from 70-metre dash to 10 km’s for the freaks. 70 metres I can handle, especially after all the beers and creamy pasta’s in Nihiwatu! Register to run here
Later,
:: uge

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Ejector, Bondi

Heaps

Heaps of swell around from the SSE. Bondi came alive this morning with a constant supply. If only the banks were better…
Combo this with North winds and you’ve got a fun day ahead (especially Mondays when everyone is chained to the cubicles).
Here is your brief of what you need to know:

Tiny surf forecast for Friday’s SurfAid Cup – c’mon Huey. It will still be fun at Manly or Curly. We’ve raised $7,684.16 of our targeted $25,000. Thank you, Termi Kashi, Grazie to the 132 Aquabumps readers (from my 40,000) that have donated. You rip. It’s not too late if you wanna shed some bucks for our main charity, Surfaid (saving lives in Indonesia).
Filipe Toledo won Trestles in tiny surf against Jordy Smith. Shame there weren’t more waves in the final.
Is it me, or is the new Bondi Bike share just not working? I’m finding those new bikes everywhere around Bondi…and no one riding them. Comment here

:: uge

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A floater, Bondi Icebergs

Washing Machine

This could be the earliest post from me in months. Grab a cuppa and I will talk you through what’s happening down the beach this morning.
We have swell, plenty actually. Bondi wasn’t great though. A rippy swim from South Bondi to the Lifeguard tower with my camera was fruitless…basically connecting with no one.
I swam in. Glad I got wet, disappointed with my shots.
From the shore I could see 3 footers, fat, breaking awkwardly on a very unusual sand bank set up. I believe a different tide would reveal more goodness.
You should find waves this weekend. Mostly decent offshore winds. My pick would be Sunday morning before the lunchtime onshore arrives.
:: uge

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Chris Friend, bashing into the morning light

Pulse

Scroll down…
As you can see plenty of surfing action this morning. It was only 2-3 foot and a bit weird, but definitely fun. I wasn’t anticipating much swell this morning, I knew it was coming though. Tonight it will pulse and tomorrow should be decent.
The winds are howling WSW offshore around 25 knots. That’ll calm down into the night. The winds were so strong last night they had to delay some flights into SYD airport.
Difficult knowing what to wear today, dress for summer or winter? Only max. 18.
:: uge

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1st light froth, 6:10am

Firty-too

It’s a cooking spring day with a freaky 32 degrees on the forecast. How good…
The beach was humming with activity this morning as the masses flocked to Bondi for their slice of this warm day. Did you get in? Cold in.
Waves were meant to be a tiny 1-2 foot, but I saw sets over head high. I wish I had taken my board down with me…
Bondi Beach sand banks have taken a severe beating from that giant recent swell. All the sand in the south corner is torn away. I am really hoping the irregular beach shapes are left alone (no bulldozer). Irregular beach shapes make for great waves to surf.
This Friday and Sunday look like good surfing days. Winds are going to blow hard later today.
That’s all you need to know for now. As you were.
:: uge

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Harries the lifeguard

Traffic

The surf has calmed down and oh boy the crowds have laid it on thick. All manner of wave craft and their mad pilots hit the beach at sunrise. Multiple banks in operation, some big gaping holes in the sand banks making fat burger sections. Nonetheless, fun little waves around head high on offer. Clean too, no wind this morning.
I would like to personally like to thank the 121, intelligent, good looking, generous people, that have donated their hard earned coin to our SurfAid Cup team. We love you. You’re the best. We have currently raised just over $6,000 for our main charity, Surfaid, who is coincidently affiliated with The Sumba Foundation (where I was last week). I saw first hand, how incredibly poor the people of remote Indonesia are – they need you. We take it for granted the basics such as running water, electricity…these people have nothing. If you want to donate, go here pretty please. The SurfAid Cup is next Friday…
Further distractions:

Pama Davies, our flamboyant Bondi local surfer, has released a new short film
Nathan Oldfield is a craftsman behind the lens… I’ve been watching his films for years. He’s launched a new one, which is only viewable via Vimeo-On-Demand. Watch the short and hopefully the full feature of ‘Church in the Sky.’

The end.
Uge

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Grayson Hinrichs blowing up at North Bondi

Bondi Thunder

I’m back in town. How about all this swell in Sydney aye? Damn, yesterday I saw some monsters rolling into Bondi (10 footers plus plus). It’s calmed down today and surfable(ish). Wished that swell had hit Occys Left last week, I was there waiting for it and didn’t’ score anything over head high. Sumba has other activities, like checking out this amazing waterfall on Thursday – amazing! Check out my 1 min video summary
Later today and tomorrow look like great surfing conditions, but I am more interested in the 32 degrees forecasted for Wednesday – whaaat? Hit the beach.
:: uge
 

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When the surf is flat, take your pony for a walk

Nihiwatu

These daily updates are starting to turn weekly huh? Nah. It’s back to normal next week.
Today’s post comes from a unique place called Sumba. Sumba is an island within 1 hours flight from Bali, Indonesia. It’s where time has stood still…it’s remote, isolated, where the people are unaffected by the outside world. Some say this is what Bali was like in the 1950s…I still think that’s a stretch.
The Sumbanese are very different to their fellow Indonesians. They’re cowboys…yes, they ride horses, little ones. Oh, and they have swords…everyone male has one. Even the waiter that serves your morning coffee carries a sword. Sumba has many localised dialects, they live in small villages without any modern conveniences e.g.s running water, electricity etc. They are extremely poor people. Disturbingly poor.
Nihiwatu is a well-integrated luxury resort on a remote Sumba beach (Stunning beach with a large rock in the middle – called the ‘Nihiwatu Rock’).  The hotel provides 320 local jobs and it’s founder Claude Graves has started the Sumba Foundation to help these people who have such a hard life. I visited the local villages and can see the good work being executed by the Foundation – mainly focusing on malaria, diet and fresh water. It was impressive – they’re saving lives.
To summarise my week here, it’s kinda like Africa meets Mentawais – safari meets surfing meets 6-star luxury. Nihiwatu’s main attraction is Occy’s Left – a 300 metre super fast left-hander. It’s the main reason why Claude rocked up here and camped on the beach for 4 years before forming the hotel.
We love the place. It’s a unique place to holiday. There is plenty to do outside of surfing and Sumba just blows my mind – so raw. We’ll be back. I will warn you, ultra-luxury surf safari trips do come with a hefty price tag…but it’s worth it. Check it
:: uge

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Definitely not pumping

Island of Gods

I’m on the move again. Don’t roll your eyes. You’re coming with me. Today it’s Bali, the island jewel of Indonesia. A crazy place, a spiritual place…a party place for lots, a surf destination for others, a place of chill for all.
It’s mind boggling how much has changed since my last trip (which wasn’t that long ago). I’ve been to Bali many, many times like most Aussies…even got married here and once upon a time had an Aquabumps Gallery in The ‘Yak.
The surf at the moment isn’t great. It’s been windy and kinda small. There is always something to surf if you want to spend the day in the car – I kicked back in a deck chair and a ‘Tang after a motorbike around Canggu. Change has been most aggressive around there…the new Kuta! What happened to all those beautiful rice paddies?
Today is the first day of Spring. Wasn’t that a mild winter?  To celebrate the change of seasons, Jane from Floreat Floral is offering free delivery for any flower orders over September. Yes, free delivery. Order away.
:: uge

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Pickles, good to have you back...ripping

Shades of Grey

It was bound to happen one of these days – yes a rainy morning! What is this!
A southerly storm is here, swell has jacked to head high…skies are grey and the strong south winds are flanking. She’s rough out there, but surfable.
A woman won nearly a billion dollars via Powerball in the US last night. That’s a bill. I’ve tried to get in touch with her to donate to our Surfaid Cup surf team. She’d be a real help. We’ve raised $5,500 of our goal $25k. Donate
:: uge

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Bondi - it's one helluva busy place

Leftism

Today’s all about the lefts. Our new sand bank set up seems to suit the lefts…nice little wedge close to shore. Awesome golden morning light.
Today’s photos are all shot with just two setups (I get asked a lot what gear I use).

For fast action surfing shots – Canon EOS 1dX Mark II with 100-400mm zoom
For portraits, landscapes – Canon EOS 5dSR with the new 16-35mm Mark II lens

That’s it. No big bags of lenses. I like to roam, climb rocks, so the less gear I carry the better.
I want to thank all 94 of my readers that donated to our SurfAid Cup team. You’re amazing, good looking and ridiculously intelligent. We’ve raised $4,500 of our target $25,000. The Bondi surf girls ‘Saltwater Curls’ have formed a team also in the SurfAid cup…they’ve offered to do your dishes and wash your cars should you donate to them (OK, maybe not, but they will be very happy if you flick em a couple bucks too).
Father’s Day is around the corner…buy him a BassikeXaquabumps tee and you’ll get a free ‘The Beach Blog’ book worth $150. Crazy deal! Pick a tee
Have a great day, :: uge

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Morning people!

Da Bra

A fine day in Sydney as the mercury warms up to 21 degrees. The swells have dropped but it’s still surfable. Head high waves on offer at most exposed beaches. For a change, I drove down to Maroubra to have a look around, some nice rights. It was a bit smaller than Bondi though…clean.
Massive thank youse to the 13 readers that generously donated to our Aquabumps Surf team who’s raising money for SURFAID, our main charity. There are 40,000 readers daily on Aquabumps, so can the other 39,987 readers please chip in some bucks? Think of it as a subscription to my free email service…and hey, you’re saving lives in Indonesia at the same. Good Karma. D O N A T E
Special show/live music coming to Bondi – No Static in the Stars is a series of fourteen short films featuring the surfing brilliance of Craig Anderson, Creed McTaggart, Ryan Burch, and Ellis Ericson, alloyed to the unique filmmaking of Jon Frank, Mick Waters, Monty Webber, Patrick Trefz, amongst others.
When/where? –Wednesday, 7 pm August 30th, Bondi Bowls
Tickets $20 on the door More info.

:: uge
 

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Rush hour, Bondi sunrise

Circular Swim

A really fun morning of waves, but enormous crowds trying to get a piece of the action. Crazy. 5 x unpredictable missiles per wave – very scary! I’m glad I made it out of there alive. Some really close shaves.
I spent 90% of my morning swimming against that South Bondi rip, making it hard to connect with surfers shredding. Nonetheless, swimming around at sunrise is one of my favourite things to do. Get out there for a wave before the wind goes a little onshore.
Rips are good for surfing – they make rip bowls!
I need something from you. I realise everyone needs something from everybody – hear me out. We are raising money for the very poor people of Indonesia via our main charity SURFAID. The SURFAID Cup is being held at Manly, Sept 22…and we have an Aquabumps team. So I would LOVE a donation from you…even just a few bucks. Do it for the kids. Please. Donate here
:: uge

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Ben Buckler looking like 'Chopes this morning

A Surf Day…

Today is built for surfing, here’s why:

The conditions have cleaned up, waves breaking 4-6 foot
The winds are offshore all day, NW then W
It’s a Monday – so there are not many people in the water

In other news:

Mentawai surf charter boat Star Koat ran aground over the weekend and our buddies on Ratu Motu had to rescue them off a remote beach. More on The Grit
Last week we travelled to Hawaii via Air New Zealand. We were fortunate to travel in economy sky couch (a little bed in economy). If you are travelling with kids, this is the ONLY way to fly…see why here

:: uge

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Human torpedo, K-RON

Drifting Low

It is Friday, so watch my latest video piece, this time a 2 minute summary of my recent hangs in Hawaii. WATCH NOW
A drifting low-pressure system down south is creating some strong westerly winds in Sydney today. Mid arvo it’s going to really blow. West winds are typically cold – which is why the freaky hot weather has subsided – and winter stereotypes have returned.
Wind is a good thing – for surfers.
Why? Lots of wind off the coast = swell. Tonight a large south swell will rock into town, tomorrow arvo will be very big 8-10 foot. You’ll have to wait until it calms down at little before scoring some great waves…I reckon late Sunday or Monday will be the pick of this swell.
Have a great weekend,
:: uge

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You'll be waiting a while fella.

Clear Skies

Clear skies – happy dayz. What a terrific run on exquisite weather.
Waves – tiny peelers, knee high ones. Logs only.
Winds – calmed down overnight.
For all you soft sand addicts – this years Blooms Bondi Barefoot soft sand race is happening right here in the hood at Bondi Beach on the 24th September. Register here
:: uge

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Good morning from Bondi

Summer in August

I’ve returned from Hawaii, all rugged up, and whaaaatt? It’s summer in August. 
Bit spooky. Far too warm for this time of year. It was 22 degrees this morning at sunrise, typically the coldest part of the day. Especially weird as we head for a top of 23 degrees – just 1 degree warmer all day long.
It’s blowing a gale, 30 knots. Hang onto your hat.
:: uge

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One of my favourite spots in the world, Waimea jump rock

The Rock

A L O H A.
How are you? I haven’t posted in a while and you’ll probably figure out why when you see these photos.
I’m in Hawaii. (A.K.A. The Rock)
My family and I come here a lot, but we’re normally based on the North Shore and in winter. It’s summer here now and we’re hanging on the East/South Coast which is just as spectacular – just lacking the big swells. The temperates feel exactly the same as winter – the islands maintain optimal conditions for human existence. I guess that’s a big factor why so many people are drawn to here.
It’s amazing…
Enjoy a 2 minute summary of my past few days!
Mahalo,
:: uge

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Love that metallic highlight

El Darko

We haven’t had many clouds in the mornings lately. We’ve had an awesome run. Today was dark, dark. Little light to work with for most of my morning wandering.
Bondi has waves, it’s settled quite nicely. I saw head high waves breaking on multiple banks. Plenty to go around.
Enjoy.
Oh, I am heading to Hawaii tomorrow. A very different time of year to visit for me after so many winters on the North Shore. Pray for swell.
:: uge

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Lost opportunities, look at that right

Bondi Caves

Bondi is well known for its flat, burgerish waves or, it’s known for its exquisite close out sections. It’s true, Bondi is not the greatest surf break in Australia – but every day, there is something to surf and have fun on. Not many places can claim that.
Today is no exception. We have 4-6 foot waves, surfable but wonky, even the hollow variety which is quite rare for here. Crowds – what crowds? The line up was pretty empty.
The swell is in decline. I am hoping it will clean up as it shrinks.
Melanoma is one of the deadliest cancers in the world however, it can be one of the most treatable if detected early. Bondi local, Scott Maggs started Beard Season to help draw awareness to skin cancer. He’s also trying to get 1 mil for his fury chin #BeardSeasonSkincheck – a good idea, go check yourself.I’m due.
:: uge

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The most photographed human at Bondi, Chris Little taking a bomb

Well, hello swell…again.

We meet again…
The big boys are back in town and Bondi is maxed this morning, again. Today just doesn’t match yesterday. We went from a flat rainy day to 6 foot plus and sunny. I think the thermostat is broken as well. It’s super cold after one of the hottest July days in years and years. Getting dressed in the morning is a real guessing game.
Nonetheless, swell, it’s good to have you back. When it settles there will be some treats for all.
:: uge

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Lucent, quite simply one of the most impressive sunrises in a long time...

Pink Tides

I shot my 6300th sunrise this morning down at Bondi Beach, so I am qualified to say this…it was a cracker. One of the greatest.
Why so good? I look for interesting cloud formations. A cloudless morning isn’t that impressive for sunrise pics. This morning had a great bunch of puffy clouds hovering over Ben Buckler. I also need a small gap on the horizon, at the base of the clouds, where the sun can filter up – making insane colours and textures. Today, we got just that. I hope you saw it. Check out our Instagram stories if you want to double check these colours…as the sceptics always say, Bondi sunrises aren’t that pink (said as they sleep in until 8 am).
If you want to buy a print of this morning’s glow, you can do so right here! Small frames kick off at $150. Maybe it was a special day that needs marking, like a baby’s birthday, a wedding anniversary?
Waves – nup, well you can’t have everything in one day!
:: uge

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We were given a little treat this morning...Bondi

Sky Show

First up, let’s wrap the week with a tiny 1-minute video called ‘PLUME’, all shot this week, around here. C’mon, you’re not that busy that you can’t watch 60 seconds of waves…taking your mind elsewhere.
Ok now, let’s talk about this morning…it was such a weird one. It looked way too cloudy to have anything decent to shoot, then BANG, like a spotlight from the heavens, the skies came alive in colour…for a minute.
Moments later, we’re back to grey-dom, like someone kicked the plug out.
Waves – so much smaller than yesterday. 1-3 foot and a bit limp. Worthy of a paddle, not pumping.
Finally, our back to back South swells have run their course. The next few days it will be tiny surf.
Come see us in our Bondi Gallery, 151 Curlewis Street Bondi. Right in the middle of the beach.
:: uge

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Plume dance, Bondi Beach 7:20am

Fiery Plumes

After a couple days of rest, the thumpin’ swells are back. What a good supply! Flanking the mighty chunks we’ve got howling offshores, creating really interesting plumes. Good shooting fodder.
Sadly the swell is TOO big for Bondi Beach. It’s maxed out, closing out. You need to surf elsewhere.
:: uge

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