I caught up with big wave legend Marky ‘Chalkie’ Matthews this morning. He’s been seriously injured (twice) over the past two years. His nickname ‘Chalk’ is in reference to his brittle bones that often break when you’re surfing 20 foot slabs of death. His last fall was at a nasty south coast slab that drilled him into the dry reef and destroyed his right leg. He’s on the come back with a great attitude and small waves at Maroubra. Seeing he’s struggling to walk smoothly it’s quite amazing he out there surfing and hacking a couple of turns out. Onya Mark. Inspiration to all of us.
Waves are tiny and from the NE. Glassy still morning perfect for your Christmas swim.
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