Definitely not pumping

Island of Gods

I’m on the move again. Don’t roll your eyes. You’re coming with me. Today it’s Bali, the island jewel of Indonesia. A crazy place, a spiritual place…a party place for lots, a surf destination for others, a place of chill for all. It’s mind boggling how much has changed since my last trip (which wasn’t that […]

See full post & more photographs
Pickles, good to have you back...ripping

Shades of Grey

It was bound to happen one of these days – yes a rainy morning! What is this! A southerly storm is here, swell has jacked to head high…skies are grey and the strong south winds are flanking. She’s rough out there, but surfable. A woman won nearly a billion dollars via Powerball in the US last […]

See full post & more photographs
Bondi - it's one helluva busy place

Leftism

Today’s all about the lefts. Our new sand bank set up seems to suit the lefts…nice little wedge close to shore. Awesome golden morning light. Today’s photos are all shot with just two setups (I get asked a lot what gear I use). For fast action surfing shots – Canon EOS 1dX Mark II with […]

See full post & more photographs
Morning people!

Da Bra

A fine day in Sydney as the mercury warms up to 21 degrees. The swells have dropped but it’s still surfable. Head high waves on offer at most exposed beaches. For a change, I drove down to Maroubra to have a look around, some nice rights. It was a bit smaller than Bondi though…clean. Massive […]

See full post & more photographs
Rush hour, Bondi sunrise

Circular Swim

A really fun morning of waves, but enormous crowds trying to get a piece of the action. Crazy. 5 x unpredictable missiles per wave – very scary! I’m glad I made it out of there alive. Some really close shaves. I spent 90% of my morning swimming against that South Bondi rip, making it hard to […]

See full post & more photographs
Ben Buckler looking like 'Chopes this morning

A Surf Day…

Today is built for surfing, here’s why: The conditions have cleaned up, waves breaking 4-6 foot The winds are offshore all day, NW then W It’s a Monday – so there are not many people in the water In other news: Mentawai surf charter boat Star Koat ran aground over the weekend and our buddies […]

See full post & more photographs
Human torpedo, K-RON

Drifting Low

It is Friday, so watch my latest video piece, this time a 2 minute summary of my recent hangs in Hawaii. WATCH NOW A drifting low-pressure system down south is creating some strong westerly winds in Sydney today. Mid arvo it’s going to really blow. West winds are typically cold – which is why the […]

See full post & more photographs
You'll be waiting a while fella.

Clear Skies

Clear skies – happy dayz. What a terrific run on exquisite weather. Waves – tiny peelers, knee high ones. Logs only. Winds – calmed down overnight. For all you soft sand addicts – this years Blooms Bondi Barefoot soft sand race is happening right here in the hood at Bondi Beach on the 24th September. […]

See full post & more photographs
Good morning from Bondi

Summer in August

I’ve returned from Hawaii, all rugged up, and whaaaatt? It’s summer in August.  Bit spooky. Far too warm for this time of year. It was 22 degrees this morning at sunrise, typically the coldest part of the day. Especially weird as we head for a top of 23 degrees – just 1 degree warmer all […]

See full post & more photographs
One of my favourite spots in the world, Waimea jump rock (Shot Aug 8. 2017)

The Rock

A L O H A. How are you? I haven’t posted in a while and you’ll probably figure out why when you see these photos. I’m in Hawaii. (A.K.A. The Rock) My family and I come here a lot, but we’re normally based on the North Shore and in winter. It’s summer here now and […]

See full post & more photographs
Love that metallic highlight

El Darko

We haven’t had many clouds in the mornings lately. We’ve had an awesome run. Today was dark, dark. Little light to work with for most of my morning wandering. Bondi has waves, it’s settled quite nicely. I saw head high waves breaking on multiple banks. Plenty to go around. Enjoy. Oh, I am heading to […]

See full post & more photographs
Lost opportunities, look at that right

Bondi Caves

Bondi is well known for its flat, burgerish waves or, it’s known for its exquisite close out sections. It’s true, Bondi is not the greatest surf break in Australia – but every day, there is something to surf and have fun on. Not many places can claim that. Today is no exception. We have 4-6 foot […]

See full post & more photographs
The most photographed human at Bondi, Chris Little taking a bomb

Well, hello swell…again.

We meet again… The big boys are back in town and Bondi is maxed this morning, again. Today just doesn’t match yesterday. We went from a flat rainy day to 6 foot plus and sunny. I think the thermostat is broken as well. It’s super cold after one of the hottest July days in years […]

See full post & more photographs