I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]

Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning […]

Yep. Still here. Here in Hawaii that is. The weather gods have been kind and there has been plenty of cranking waves. Bet you didn’t know: Hawaii is the 50th state of America. It was the last to join and is dubbed the fittest state in the USA. That’s because everyone is surfing all day […]

I’m lucky enough to travel to some pretty amazing places these days. I’ve seen a lot – but Bondi is still home. We may not have world class epic waves but there’s a nice balance between beach and working life when living in 2026. Today’s daily email highlights 12 reasons why I’m into Bondi so […]

This week has been awesome on the North Shore. The weather and winds have been behaving nicely. Here’s the highlights. Wanna come here? Sure thing. It’s good. We come every winter. It can get big though…real big…but you can (nearly) always find somewhere to surf. Yes it is crowded, very, and the people here can […]

For a long time I have wanted to swim out to Waimea Bay and shoot photographs. Today I got to tick that bucket list box. OK, it wasn’t 30 foot…it was 15 foot with a few sneaker sets…but it was still a pretty cool thing to do in life. Waimea Bay is the birth place […]

It’s been big and onshore here in Hawaii. Today is the first day in quite some time that the wind has gone back to it’s traditional trades. Very strange conditions for this time of year. Oahu still has plenty to do when the surf ain’t cranking…it’s an amazing island. Don’t forget it’s Valentines tomorrow…come visit […]

Aloha. I read the Hawaiian surf forecast for today. “Cross shore winds, 2-3 footers that will grow and sundown could be triple head high.” Oh…only triple head high. Shame the westerly winds are spoiling it cause it’s gonna get huge. Maui/Jaws is gonna pump (good winds for over there). What cracks me up is everyone […]

It’s  been a tough week on the North Shore. No really… The entire week was plagued with small conditions and onshore winds. Thankfully on the weekend that all changed! 6-8 foot and offshore. I’m out there (it’s still weekend here). Another island I am a big fan of is little old New Zealand. Hopefully make […]

We’ve got some annoying onshore winds on the North Shore that are wreaking havoc. These nemesis winds are here for a few days so the surf action has died down and you are looking at the outtakes from the recent good times. I’m sure the East Coast would be hosting something enjoyable to surf (offshore […]

Aloha. Sounds like Sydney has been pummeled by a large swell in my absence. Not very common for this time of year. Even sounded like it was nearly bigger than here in Hawaii. Pipe has been on most days and the Volcom Pipe Pro has been and gone…John John won it convincingly, combining tubes and […]