Hiatus
FINALLY, it’s stopped raining, and the sunshine has broken through. Nice to see everybody out and about, doing their morning rituals. Waves were breaking on two sandbanks, a left and a right, but only around waist high and very fat. You need a high volume surf vehicle today and plenty of patience. With the North […]
Radiator
The shortest day of the year in the southern hemisphere is June 21, a few weeks away. That means the sunrise is late at this time of year. I sit on the beach on these cold mornings, waiting for the sun to peer over Ben Buckler, illuminating my subjects and, most importantly, making it comfortable […]
The Beach People
There are no waves today. My little boy paddled in complaining the ocean was lifeless this morning (keep in mind he only weighs 28 kilos and can rip 6-inch chop). Swell is coming, and so is the rain.It will rain for days… Bondi has a great local community, especially in the mornings. Most people think […]
Fluidform
It’s still breaking, yeah, ah-huh, but smaller than yesterday. An excellent run of surfable days with light winds. Dreamy. Maybe this makes up for 2020 – where a wave didn’t break at South Bondi for 6 !@#!$ months! 6 months! 2 months of which we had a damn fence around a closed beach. So this […]
The Pro & Protégé
It’s no secret; we’ve had an incredible 5-day run of excellent surf at Bondi (whilst I’ve been dashing across to the WSL comp at Narrabeen). Day after day, multiple banks have been lighting up – which is rare for our 900 metres of south-facing sand. Today the good times have ended, the disruptive onshores are here and […]
Waterworld
Even though the surf was dribbly and without push, it was a fun vibe in the water. Firstly, it’s warm in the brine – 23+ degrees. The warmest time of year to swim, so get into it. Secondly, there’s good banks and the odd 1-2 foot had a loggers wall spilling to the beach. I […]
Funny Farm
It’s wild out there, chaos. Boards flying in all directions, rights on lefts, lefts on rights, 5 per wave. Wear your Stackhat and dodge the torpedos – it’s 2 foot and packed! Its incredible how much the surf dropped out overnight, slipping three gears and idling at sunrise. Clean morning, glorious conditions brought out the […]
Get Wet
Finally a morning without rain. Well, kinda. Sorta. It was weird, I was shooting a glorious sunrise, but it was still spitting. As I type out this riveting editorial, I can see sunshine dance through the skylight of AB-HQ. Party time! It’s been a good week of NE swell and many have filled their wave […]
Deprived
It’s been a tough week for us surfers due to a lack of swell. I bet there are some cranky pant foam riders reluctantly working from home…looking very detached in their zoom calls. I bring good news; next week has plenty of swell – but also plenty of onshore wind (and rain). I don’t care, […]
Siberian
What another magic spring day outside as the mercury creeps up to 27 degrees. The water is frigid, I got an icecream headache after my first dunk. Yesterdays howling northerlies reeking havoc with our water temps again! This morning we have grooming westerlies and a small NE swell. At East facing beaches, there are waves […]
Detonation
This morning was an explosion of colour over Bondi Beach. Bright hues glowed from the North as we entered the first day of winter. The colours were so strong, it looked unreal. (I even pulled them back in post). It’s also the 1st day of regional travel, as our COVID19 grip loosens. Loads of people […]
Rip Currents
We are experiencing a good little run of small waves in Sydney. It’s surfable every day – no – not cranking, but you can get wet. As the rips turned on – the bowls started to flow. (I’m sure my Mum will call me later asking what that means in English). The micro-groms were out […]
Mega Good Vibes
This morning was a treat. The waves are tiny but the water is so warm and comfortable. Multiple banks were putting on a little peak and kids, mums, dads, uncles, and grandpas were out enjoying the salubrious conditions. Everybody had a smile. It’s a cracker, go for a swim. Cape Mentelle X AquabumpsLate last year […]